Fall Empties | Skincare

As much as I want to gush about and play tribute to the products that have gotten me through this transition into fall, I think I’m going to lose my mind if I have to stare at this full overflowing bag of empty products for much longer… and this is just the skincare empties to start with.

Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm ($44 CAD | 125 mL)

This is the gentlest balm cleanser that I’ve ever tried and suitable for every single skin condition that I can think of (and trust me I’ve suffered with a few) and absolutely annihilates makeup and sunscreen without irritating any part of the face or eyeballs. It doesn’t really use traditional oils that some report as clogging, so it would be appropriate for those who are oil-hesitant, has a super minimalist ingredient list and doesn’t include fragrance or anything irritating. I’ve actually been venturing out from using this one because it’s gone up in price, the fact that I love the balms with more traditionally oily and nourishing textures and the variety of balms on the market that I want to experiment with.

The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm ($13 CAD | 150 mL)

This is another uber gentle fragrance-free cleansing balm, but it has packaging that has its limitations and it is nourishing and soothing in ways the Clinique is not. I’m quite a fan of the tube packaging for ease and sink-counter storage but it can be an absolute pain to squeeze out at times — but I don’t have really have significant issues with that and seem to actually have the determination to get the product out. It features sweet almond oil, oat kernel oil and a plant-derived wax to melt down makeup and and these in combination with the oat kernel flour leave the skin hydrated and calmed. It isn’t quite the makeup annihilator that the Clinique is but it will remove mascara and waterproof eye makeup with a little bit of patience. It does emulsify but many will find the film kind of unappealing and likely due to the tube packaging and the oils it contains, the mixture can come out kind of separated — but melts down with ease in the way that coconut oil and shea butter does. I have a fresh one to start on after I go through the cleansers I’m working on and currently have in my stash and will likely particularly enjoy during the winter.

Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser ($53 CAD | 120 mL)

This cream cleanser was one of those things that I didn’t realize I loved until I was at the very end of the tube. I was lucky enough to be able to purchase two backups on sale, which speaks to how much I’ve grown to love this cleanser. It’s a real treat in cleanser form. There’s enough oil content that it melts makeup well, but doesn’t remove tenacious eye makeup with quite as much ease as a cleansing balm or oil. The cleansing agents are really gentle, the grape seed oil, jojoba seed oil, avocado oil and coconut oils are high enough on the ingredients list to really nourish the skin and the honey and lactic acid add a boost of humectants to the formula. It’s scented but not with essential oils and after I use it, my skin always feels soothed, comforted and less dehydrated afterwards.

Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence ($49.99 CAD | 150 mL)

I adored this watery first essence in the summer when it was beyond hot, humid and muggy as anything, and I finished it at the tail end of the summer. However, the water-light texture wasn’t ideal for my thirsty easily irritated skin, especially as things got cooler and my skin did its temperamental thing. Ingredients-wise, this essence relies on the probiotic-rich bifida ferment lysate, soothing humectant saccharomyces ferment, green tea, a variety of amino acids, replenishing ingredients and barrier-supporting niacinamide. It was rich in humectants, soothing ingredients and antioxidants but I’m not sure the texture was for me. It was super refreshing in the summer, without the irritation of essential oils or menthol or anything among that variety. I’m not sure the water-like texture is for me, however.

Dr Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence ($43.69 CAD | 150 mL)

If the Neogen was a product that’s great but not the ideal product for me, this essence exemplifies the kind of essence essentially for me. It’s a more traditional essence to be used later on in the routine but is also a milky moisturizer on steroids simultaneously. It contains emollients, glycerin, green tea, saccharomyces ferment, sunflower oil, sodium hyaluronate, cocoa seed extract, centella asiatica and ceramide np. It’s a kind of separated liquid consisting of tea and separated emollients that becomes a beautiful milk when shaken before use. It’s gloriously soothing, hydrating and moisturizing, even on compromised and irritated skin. It’s wonderfully anti-inflammatory and plumping and doesn’t even require a separate moisturizer. I often used it without a moisturizer over the top and I’ve already ordered a backup.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule ($37.29 CAD | 50 mL)

This “ampoule” quickly became my favourite gentle daily non-active serum. It’s currently in the mail from Stylevana and the name is changed but the ingredients look identical. It does contain niacinamide but not in a ridiculous percentage that could lead to irritation and rather helps support the skin barrier. I would guess that it contains somewhere in between 3-5%, which is the sweet spot for many of its benefits. It also contains bifida ferment lysate, ten different probiotic ingredients and extracts, glycerin, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and some oils including essential oils, which oddly enough don’t bother my skin whatsoever — but they are towards the end of the hefty ingredient list. I love this serum because it’s a great humectant, supports the skin barrier in a variety of ways and is instantly soothing. It helps that it never stings over a thoroughly pissed off skin barrier. It’s the perfect serum when you don’t want to come near your face with anything irritating and want to nourish and rebuild it instead.

Dr Dennis Gross B3 Adaptive SuperFoods Stress Rescue Super Serum ($96 CAD | 30 mL)

Thanks to the 2020 Caroline Hirons Summer Kit, I was able to try this pricier serum. I used it primarily last year but then I kind of left it towards the back of my skincare organizer, only to finish up recently. I really enjoyed this milky serum and the ingredients worked for my skin concerns but unfortunately some of the essential oils the formula contains irritates my skin around the mouth and cheeks with consistent use. It contains barrier-supporting niacinamide as the fourth ingredient, sweet almond oil, squalane, a bunch of antioxidant rich plant extracts and fatty acids. It’s a shame really but the essential oils were just not suited for my skin.

The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream ($12.99 CAD | 15 mL)

This eye cream was a great everyday one for my sensitive dry under eyes, especially in the mornings under makeup and around tired eyes. It doesn’t sting like the majority of things do around my sensitive allergy-prone eyes, and the metal tip felt very soothing and awakening in the morning. The subtle cosmetic brightening effect was great for brightening dark circles. It contains glycerin, mafura seed butter, a man made antioxidant, mica, ginseng and centella asiatica. It was brightening, laid amazing under makeup, was soothing and affordable.

The Ordinary Caffeine 5% + EGCG Depuffing Eye Serum ($6.70 CAD | 30 mL)

I’m not sure why I slept on this product for so long; the ingredient list makes this one of the most robust and sophisticated formulas that The Ordinary has produced. My eyes are a problem area, being sensitive, dry, suffering from dark circles and prone to creasing with any kind of makeup, but I do not suffer with puffiness which is the primary concern this product corrects. I enjoy the thick gel texture that doesn’t migrate, adds substantial moisture with its oilier texture and doesn’t make my eye area burn randomly. It contains a number of antioxidants, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid. Caffeine and the green tea derived antioxidant both are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory activity and have some research to support that they help with dark circles. I would repurchase because it actually has helped with the appearance of my under eyes and I enjoy it in the way I have enjoyed the Niod Fractionated Eye-Contour Concentrate at a fraction of the price. It doesn’t have the same sophisticated formula of peptides and amino acids but I get the same experience using it, especially when being incredibly sleep deprived.

Belif The True Cream Moisturizing Bomb ($50 CAD | 50 mL)

This was an awesome moisturizer especially in the warmer weather months because of the cushiony lightweight cream texture and kind of refreshing feel it leaves behind. It contains a bunch of antioxidant-rich plant extracts including a number of fermented extracts, macadamia oil, panthenol and oat kernel extract. It’s really plumping, soothing and moisturizing and really helps with dull potentially flaking skin. I normally shy away from jar packaging but I’m willing to look beyond it for this product. It’s not fragrance free either but it didn’t irritate my skin and I would happily use again. It’s great for skins with dryness and irritation that helps without feeling suffocating.

What products have you finished?
Maggie, x.

Top 22 of 2022

Because I lack the appropriate organizational skills and planning and the end of 2022 is busy, this post is coming a wee bit late, but I’m still going to make it happen. These are the new products I discovered or new products I fell in love with in 2022; I tried to leave out products that I’ve consistently talked about before 2022, but these still apply. These posts are my favourite to read or digest in any form as they are a longer-term view of the products, as opposed to initial impressions. There are some repeats from last year, but these were only on products that I included last year when they were pretty new; I felt I needed to include them again as I continued to love them.

Banila Co Clean It Zero Purifying Cleansing Balm ($31 CDN | 100 mL)

Despite the fact that I wasn’t the greatest with using sunscreen daily and didn’t wear much makeup, I really enjoyed using this cleansing balm, either for a double cleansing routine or on its own. It has a subtle calming scent that comes from good ol’ synthetic fragrance, that my skin tends to tolerate better anyway, and is enriched with evening primrose oil, argan oil, centella, green tea and licorice root. It melts down makeup and sunscreen well and keeps the skin feeling calmed and nourished afterwards. It also doubled as a moisturizing mask when left on while having a bath or doing some self care.

Fenty Skin Fat Water Hydrating Milky Toner Essence ($42 CDN | 150 mL)

I’ve been loving this super moisturizing milky toner since I bought it from the Sephora VIB Sale. I don’t find that I can use it every single day on top of tretinoin and chemical exfoliants without starting to feel it, as I find the fragrance in the formula (it’s not subtle) or one of the plant extracts kind of irritating on sensitized winter skin. It contains a significant amount of barrier-healing/reinforcing niacinamide, squalane, hyaluronic acid, a number of amino acids, apple fruit extract, watermelon oil and coconut oil. The end result is skin that looks bouncy and plump, moisturized and soothed. It’s very rich but is great on dry winter skin.

Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum ($108 CDN | 30 mL)

I tried this lactic-acid chemical exfoliant and serum after buying it in the November 2021 Sephora VIB Sale, and it was love at first use. I included this serum as an early favourite in last years favourite post and I’m pleased to report that my feelings haven’t changed. I use this serum 2-3 times per week and I find that it gently resurfaces my skin and refines my skin texture, but it also performs as a barrier-supporting humectant serum, making it great value for money, despite being a bit of an investment. The peptides are plumping, the amino acids help to fortify the skin barrier and the lactic acid is a great gentle exfoliant. I’m also partial to the inclusion of sodium hyaluronate and fatty acids.

Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($16.99 CDN | 100 mL)

I had to check previous yearly favourites posts to make sure that this was a new inclusion, but somehow it is. This is described as an essence, but in all honesty, it’s my favourite humectant serum and you get enough of it that it can be used liberally. It’s 96% snail mucin so has that snail-y snotty gel texture but it really helps to draw the moisture into my dehydrated skin and helps repair anything that’s going on barrier-wise, if I’m in an eczema flare or if I’ve overdone it. It also has the amino acid betaine, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, arginine and allantoin and gives me bright, plumped skin. It helps minimize dry patches and texture, too, without using any irritating actives.

Cosrx Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream ($25.99 CDN | 25 mL)

Despite not traditionally being an eye cream kind of gal, as I find they are often kind of irritating and are a glorified moisturizer, I’ve happily purchased this eye cream twice. I have a uber-sensitive eczema-prone under-eye area and tend to have issues with any sort of makeup clinging to that dryness and texture; this eye cream doesn’t sting or anything, adds moisture and maybe a hint of brightness to the area and makes concealer and face makeup sit 100x better on the area. The niacinamide and adenosine is likely what is helping with the brightness and barrier improvement and the snail and peptides work well as humectants. I enjoy that the texture is a rich lotion (although the texture does make it easy to over-use) without that heavy over-occlusive feeling. I also enjoy that the formula is sophisticated without being expensive.

Sunday Riley ICE Ceramide Moisturizer with Vitamin F ($86 CDN | 50 mL)

My last minute recent skincare favourite of 2022 has to be this moisturizer. It’s occlusive, so I don’t find that I’m going through a ton of it with my super thirsty often-angry skin, but it will pill up if you go to town with it. However, it contains ceramides, lanolin, fatty acids, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, algae extract and sugar-based humectants so it’s well equipped to reinforce the skin barrier and protect the skin during drier winter months, especially when paired with tretinoin and sleep deprivation. It contains fragrance that is quite marzipan-y but it doesn’t irritate my skin in the way that essential oil laden formulas do and really helps to lock in serums, toners and essences.

Cerave Baby Healing Ointment ($13.49 CDN | 85g)

Strangely enough, you can’t purchase the regular Cerave Healing Ointment in Canada, unless you want to pay extra to an Amazon third party seller; However, the baby version seems to be absolutely identical. I swear by this healing ointment, first as a lip balm that actually works to heal chapped lips and as a healing ointment over any eczema patches or any form of dermatitis/sensitivity. It’s petrolatum-based so works beautifully for any sort of slugging, if that’s your thing. It also contains three different ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and phytospingosine, which gives it extra barrier-healing power over your traditional petrolatum ointments.

Paula’s Choice Daily Replenishing Body Cream ($25 US | 210 mL)

I shouldn’t have been surprised by how much I loved this cream moisturizer, given Paula’s Choice’s track record of irritant-free sophisticated formulas, but I was impressed. It’s remarkably un-stingy even when my eczema is flared up and is helping me to keep it at bay. It contains shea butter, plant oils, ceramides, antioxidants and skin soothing ingredients and has a rich but lightweight texture. It’s comforting on dry itchy winter skin and definitely helps with an upset skin barrier, and leaves my chronically tight and dehydrated skin moisturized for a substantial amount of time.

Curlsmith Core Strength Shampoo ($36 CDN | 335 mL)

This was my happy discovery of my just right everyday shampoo — not everyday in the sense that I wash my hair but my standard shampoo. It doesn’t contain the harsher sulfates, thus, I haven’t had any allergic episodes to it (sulphates tend to irritate my scalp and give me generalized allergic reactions), but it also is cleansing enough to keep my scalp happy and to remove product buildup (with the help of a clarifying shampoo from time to time). Despite not being a typical fruity scent lover, I do enjoy the luxurious fruit scent and I enjoy how it’s gentle and moisturizing, while providing some lather. I love that it doesn’t exacerbate my hairs tangliness and has great slip. It also contains some proteins, which aren’t a game changer in rinse-off products, but it’s no wonder I love it — my high porosity hair tends to respond well to proteins.

Curlsmith Curl Quenching Conditioning Wash ($33 CDN | 350 mL)

I’m usually a shampoo kind of girl but every once in a while, I like to alternate with a co-wash that has actual cleansing abilities, like this one. It contains cocamidopropyl betaine, so it actually has extra ability to remove product buildup and cleanse the hair than standard conditioner washing, but is still super gentle and moisturizing. I love that it has wonderful slip, is uber moisturizing and works as a 2-in-1 product for me on lazier days. The slip is incredible and the shea butter seems to give me nice curl clumps.

L’Oreal 10-in-1 Professional Cream-in-Mousse ($32 CDN | 250 mL)

Years ago, when I first started styling my hair wavy, I really liked mousses. However, since I started following the curly girl method — and very loosely at the moment — I barely have been using, and the ones I’ve tried, I haven’t been a fan of. This one I really like, however, and it reminds me of the L’Oreal one I loved ten years ago. It does contain a drying alcohol but remains moisturizing, with glycerin, urea and fatty alcohols. It’s silicone-free and doesn’t offer much hold, but it’s moisturizing and gives me great curl clumps.

Pattern Beauty Styling Custard ($32 CDN | 443.6 mL)

While plenty of people seem to be using this supper-slippery custard as a gel or single-styler, I’m much happier with it as a curl enhancer, sandwiched between cream and gel. On its own, it doesn’t provide the hold and humidity-resistance that I’m looking for but it’s super slippery and moisturizing, giving me some of my most defined hair in general and juicy ringlets. It contains irish moss, flaxseed oil, a few polymers and glycerin. The end-result seems to be springy shiny clumped waves and curls.

Curlsmith In-Shower Style Fixer ($36 CDN | 237 mL)

This year, I tried this mega-thick glue-like gel and I have to say that I’ve enjoyed using it. It’s so thick and sticky that it needs to be used on soaking wet hair and you can’t overdo it, as it can be kind of heavy. However, it has amazing humidity-resistance and gives me curls clumps that last and last, even throughout heavy humidity in a maritime climate. It also gives some great grit that helps hold curl higher up in my hair, where my strands tend to lie flatter against my scalp. If you go to town on this gel, however, it can have an aggressive cast…

Pattern Beauty Strong Hold Gel ($32 CDN | 425g)

Another gel with even more hold, initial crunch and cast is this one and I enjoy it because of just how concentrated it is and how life-resistant is this one from Pattern, It gets product-y quickly and can totally build up in the hair if you aren’t clarifying appropriately. However, I often get 4-5 days with like no refreshing with this one, which is rare for me. The irish moss extract and linseed oil also help this formula give super juicy curl clumps, that set it apart from other super hard hold gels. The cast can also be aggressive but gives the most humidity-resistant and life-resistant curls. It’s so concentrated that I’m still using the mini.

Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel Stronger Hold ($36 CDN | 250 mL)

This gel was not new to me in 2022 (or new in general). However, I fell in love with it last year. It’s featherlight but has medium-strong hold and actually holds up well in high humidity. It gives me light, spiral-y waves and ringlets that feel product free and have more bounce. This is one of those light slippery gels that refreshes well, holds up for days on wash day when used correctly and offers curl enhancement with the protein it contains. It holds up alarmingly well, despite being lightweight, on those rainy muggy days.

Ouidad Featherlight Touch-Up Gel Cream ($25.39 CDN | 100 mL)

As someone with a curly hair product hoarding problem, I’ve previously found refreshing-specific products gimmicky and unnecessary. However, this jelly-like product is the best product I’ve ever found for refreshing dry day 3-4 hair into more defined curls. It adds a little bit more hold (but no real added crunch) and helps to smooth frizz, reduce fuzziness and bring back definition. It’s quite hydrating and has some protein to add structure to the hair. Because it works smoothed over dry hair, it’s amazing for laying down frizz and adding control without being product-y.

Living Proof No Frizz Vanishing Oil ($42 CDN | 50 mL)

In the past, I was always a hair oil kind of girl but after I started following the curly girl method, I abandoned them, as most are very silicone-y or weirdly heavy. Believe me, I tried a few at the start of my journey and my results weren’t great. Since reintroducing this oil back into my routine, I’m in love. It’s lightweight silicone-free and sealing, helping to seal my hair against humidity, locking moisture in and helping to break any sort of crunchy cast. Not only is this a way to help maintain my style, it tends to lend a more polished feel to second, third and fourth day curls, smoothing out crown frizz and the like.

As I Am Dry & Itchy Scalp Care Oil Treatment ($19.99 CDN | 120 mL)

As someone with hair that gets incredibly tangly (and has a lot of hair to detangle), using an oil before washing and dry detangling can be a life saver, and this is a great pre-shampoo oil. It has castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, salicylic acid to help with itchy scalp, olive oil, tea tree and even a ceramide so it’s more of a sophisticated formulation than your standard oil. This really helps to minimize a dry itchy winter scalp, while helping hugely with detangling and minimizing the tangling that occurs when I wash my hair. My high porosity hair also soaks up this stuff and looks great after being washed out.

Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 ($62 CDN | 30 mL)

This tinted moisturizer come skincare-makeup hybrid featured in my previous year’s favourites post, however, it was included as a really new product. I had to include it again as a 2022 favourite because it was basically the only foundation-like product I reached for in 2022. The coverage is sheer to light, but it has a great shade selection, and it features a solid SPF 40 which honestly I use for sun protection in cooler months when I’m not outside; plus, it contains a few forms of hyaluronic acid, squalane and niacinamide in terms of skincare ingredients, and is fragrance free. I love that I don’t even need to set it and then it clings minimally to dry patches, even when I’m sick and/or I’ve overdone the tretinoin.

Clinique Airbrush Concealer ($36 CDN | 1.5 mL)

I’m quite picky about concealers, having under-eyes that are quite dry, sensitive and prone to creasing. This illuminating concealer pen has been a favourite of mine. The coverage is only light to medium but it illuminates the under eye area and minimizes dark circles without clinging to texture or becoming overly creased. As someone who is more into lighter coverage bases, this is the perfect complement.

L’Oreal Infallible 24H Fresh Wear Bronzer in 250 Light ($19.96 CDN | 9g)

L’Oreal has always made my favourite drugstore bronzers but the current iteration might be the best formula yet, and it certainly has the best assortment of shades. It starts pretty fair, rosy and cool toned — I’m not the palest shade, I wear the warmer second shade — and continues in decent increments until a fairly deep shade and it has a creamy formula for a powder, not accentuating texture imperfections and has good longevity. The colours are remarkably golden and non-orange and it works as a great matte eyeshadow too. If I haven’t been using cream bronzer, I’ve been happily using this.

Natasha Denona My Dream Eyeshadow Palette ($87 CDN | 1.28g)

This eyeshadow palette is pricy — but not as pricy as the larger format Natasha Deanna palettes or the Pat McGrath palettes — but I love the quality and selection of neutral warm leaning shades with that hint of plum. The eyeshadows have that rosy purply undertone that Urban Decay Naked 3 had but is executed a million times better, and probably warmer (which is my preference). I enjoy the selection of more unique paler shimmery shades that are perfect for the lid, the practical matte black and mid-toned matte crease shades, the plums and some of the more unique metallic shades. I don’t think I’ve used another palette since I grabbed this one from a Sephora sale.

What were your favourite products of 2022?

The Empties | Fall 2022

Recently, I had a comment (which I love, don’t be afraid to reply to any of my posts) about my earlier curly-wavy hair product posts, asking if I was still doing them. I certainly am and even when I’m not actively posting about hair products, I’m compiling lists and thoughts. However, I wanted to get my reviews of the products I finished out of the way first (and the bag of clutter out of my life additionally); I find these posts particularly valuable as a consumer because it gives longer-term feedback about products that were valued enough to be finished. These certainly will invariably include a selection of hair products that I finished, many of which would be put in the favourites category:

Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Biotic Primer ($37.99 CDN | 355 mL)

This was/is a slippery pre-shampoo detangler, rich in fermented rice water, some bond building ingredients — totally not advertised — and prebiotics to help with scalp flora and microbiome. By this, I mean that is protects against drying, tangling, friction-inducing effect of shampoo. This slippery product works well but is not crucial for me, because I can use a conditioner in its place to detangle and protect against shampooing. Luckily these days, my scalp health doesn’t necessitate using something with these microbiome-supporting ingredients.

Curlsmith Multi-Tasking Conditioner ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This is a great lightweight conditioner in its own right but it’s my favourite leave in conditioner because of how light but moisturizing it is, the slip it provides and the bit of protein it contains (protein really boosts the uniformity of my waves and curls on my head). It serves as a great base for brush styling on my incredibly tangly hair, lending smoothness to the finished style without weight in combination with my hold products. It contains castor seed oil, babassu kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, murumuru seed butter and shea butter without any heaviness and pumpkin seed extract, hydrolyzed hemp sed and hydrolyzed rice protein for strength and structure. When I started using it last winter, I noticed it was particularly amazing in dry winter weather in the tangly fragile underlay of my hair that’s constantly being aggressed by scarves, coats and precipitation.

Curlsmith Post-Biotic Calming Conditioner ($37.99 CDN | 355 mL)

This was a nice lightweight conditioner without silicones or a lot of butters and oils (but it does contain shea butter and castor oil halfway down the ingredient list), enriched with menthyl lactate for that soothing cooling sensation, tea tree oil and peppermint oil and humectant plant extracts, The essential oils and menthol derivative weren’t irritating on my eczema prone scalp but I found the conditioner a little light for my hair needs. The slip was moderate, but I think I benefit from some more oils and butters. My favourite way to use this conditioner was probably as a co-wash, and I didn’t mind using it in any way. It’s not for me but it’s a great lightweight conditioner for those who struggle with build-up and are looking for something featherweight.

Ouidad Vitalcurl+ Tress Effects Styling Gel ($31-36 CDN | 250 mL)

This gel sits between medium to strong hold for me — but keep in mind I have high porosity hair that seems to absorb the hold of products so it might be stronger for some — that’s quite moisturizing without being heavy in the slightest but lacks a lot of humidity resistance. By this, I mean that in my humid climate, I find it frizzes and loses definition in muggy summer weather. It contains barely any protein, some film-forming humectants, film-forming polymers and a variety of plant oils. It performs much better in cooler weather on my finer high porosity hair and humid environment, not that I wouldn’t use again, but there are other Ouidad gels I prefer.

AG Haircare Curl Fresh Definer ($28 CDN | 178 mL)

This sleek tube houses a cream-gel that’s marketed more as a cream but offers light-medium hold on its own (and adds some hold when you put a gel on top), adding volume, grit and some curl enhancement. It has a rather strong scent of cake batter, combined with essential oils and is not uber moisturizing (thanks to the somewhat drying but pattern-enhancing magnesium sulfate), but regardless, it’s a potent but lightweight styler. I don’t find this to be the most clump-enhancing cream but it definitely tightens up some of my pattern, adding volume, texture, hold and control. I would definitely consider repurchasing after I use up some of the creams and curl enhancers currently in my stash.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($52-$55.99 CDN | 473 mL)

This gel gives me the closest thing to my soul hair that can be achieved through natural means (and if I play my cards right can even beat curling iron curls), which should not shock any regular readers because I’ve talked about this many times before in empties posts and favourites posts. It’s very moisturizing, — especially for being a gel — light to medium in weight but has flexible medium-strong hold; it gives me clumpy bouncy ringlets that lasts through sweaty workouts and humidity for days when styled correctly, without feeling or looking product-y in the hair. It contains lots of humectants, film-forming humectants and sealing oils. It contains irish moss and flaxseed extract to really enhance my 2c-ish waves and curls.

Curlsmith Bouncy Strength Volume Foam ($34.99 CDN | 222 mL)

Despite the fact that I love every other product in the Strength Recipe line, my first foray into mousse/foam in years has not been love at first use. Unfortunately, I find that when I use this in any amount on my wet hair, it destroys my curl clumps. My theory is that the grit it adds tends to do this in my unique hair. It can work for me, used in moderation in my roots, for some lift especially at the crown where my hair likes to fall limp when left to its own devices. It contains a few proteins in the first few ingredients on the list and a bunch of extracts that I normally love, but I think the gritty texture it adds tends to break apart ringlets in my wet hair, without adding any hold or curl enhancement. The good news is that it’s actually a great refreshing product on dry or damp hair after detangling on day 3-4 hair; it’s just not a day one all-over hair product for me. I do want to experiment with more products of this type, especially for refreshing and some help at the crown/back of my hair that is much looser than the front of my hair.

ESPA Soothing Bath Oil ($46.75 CDN | 100 mL)

My eczema usually does not get along with essential oils at all but I actually really enjoyed using this essential oil based bath oil. The scent was super calming and spa-like with sandalwood, myrrh and rose and the oil really helped to combat the transepidermal water loss from soaking in a tub full of water, leaving my skin with a little bit of moisture afterwards. I was lucky enough to snag this in a Fab Fit Fun sale and would probably repurchase at a discount again.

Aveeno Creamy Moisturizing Oil ($14.99 CDN | 354 mL)

Throughout the humid summer, I happily was using this as a body moisturizer daily after bathing. It was good for combatting my dry itchy legs when my eczema was not flared up — it’s an entirely different story now unfortunately –, and actually locking moisture into the skin. It’s described as an oil but in my experience, it’s more of a oil-based moisturizer (as the sesame seed oil, sweet almond oil and oat kernel oil is blended with glycerin, dimethicone and oat kernel flour) or a body oil-moisturizer hybrid. It has a subtle calming scent — that is synthetic and generally not irritating — and is lighter weight than a traditional cream. It wouldn’t be enough for me on it’s own for my eczema-affected areas but I’m tempted to pick it up again.

Drunk Elephant Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser ($45 CDN | 110g)

I love using cleansing balms in general because of how soothing and nourishing they are and the ease that they dissolve makeup and sunscreen with, and I really enjoyed using this essential oil free balm cleanser. It’s also fragrance-free, just smelling of the sweet almond oils and the other rich oils that the formula contains. In terms of balm cleansers, it’s very rich and dry-skin friendly. It really annihilates makeup, even of the waterproof or sweat-resistant variety, and emulsifies with water, leaving the skin with a nourishing film unless followed with another cleanser. It’s concentrated, but expensive, yet repurchase worthy.

Clinique Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion ($53 CDN | 200 mL)

Completely unbeknownst to me, Clinique has had this Asian-style essence-toner in their repertoire for years and I didn’t even know it was a thing, and it’s good. It has a water-light kind of jelly texture and features saccharomyces lysate extract, centella asiatica, caffeine, bifida ferment lysate, acetyl glucosamine, lactobacillus ferment, caffeine and sodium hyaluronate, to help soothe, brighten and hydrate the skin with a wide variety of humectants. It left me with plump skin that was calm and even and contains the probiotic ingredients that intrigue me. I tend to prefer richer toners and essences with more oil content but I enjoyed this.

Dr Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence ($42.90 CDN | 150 mL)

Speaking of milky essence-toners, this one is my absolute favourite. In the summer, I finished my second bottle and I miss it tremendously, especially as the weather is getting warmer and my skin is getting drier. I’ve been trying to hold off on repurchasing, making myself finish what I’ve currently got on rotation first but it’s a losing battle. Regardless, it’s a beautiful milky essence-toner, especially for dry sensitive skin, looking for some barrier support. It’s fragrance free, contains tea extract, saccharomyces ferment, green tea, sunflower oil, sodium hyaluronate and centella asiatica and absolutely nothing irritating. When I use this, my skin is calmer, dewy and plump and generally less angry.

Paula’s Choice Defense Essential Glow Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 ($33 US | 60 mL)

Paula’s Choice has definitely moved from being a fairly affordable brand, just a little more expensive than your traditional or quintessential ‘drugstore’ brands to more of a midrange or premium drugstore brand. However, there are still a good number of their products that I find to be a good value for money; their well formulated sunscreens are some of these products. This one is a mineral sunscreen that is moisturizing, luminizing and doesn’t accentuate dry patches and texture like most mineral sunscreens do. Basically, it overcomes many of the cosmetic shortcomings of mineral sunscreens and it’s great for dry, sensitive skin. It has a grey-tinge that translates to a slightly blurring finish without a white-tinge for those with fair to medium skin. The dewy and luminous finish is not ideal for those trying to achieve a matte look or those on the oilier side of things. I have and would buy again.

What products have you finished?

Summer Essentials

As I started to write and compile this post, the Canadian east coast has been in a heatwave constantly for well over a month, which wouldn’t be so bad if, a, I actually enjoyed this level of heat and if, b, it wasn’t accompanied with the constant mugginess of entering a sauna. It’s been a hot minute since I’ve written a blog post — make that a hot and humid minute — but here are the products I’ve been loving most recently:

Editors note: It may almost officially be Autumn, however, the weather hadn’t leaned at all that way until the present week.

Ouai Cleansing Scalp & Body Sugar Scrub ($50 CDN | 250g)

This was a product that I chose to try from FabFitFun. It was an obvious choice once I knew it was sulfate free — I occasionally have multiple site allergic reactions and get horrific scalp eczema when I use either sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate — and had that signature warm rose floral ‘melrose’ scent that several Ouai products have. It did not disappoint. I actually really enjoy using the scalp scrubby cleanser when I want a gentle cleanse but need some scalp TLC — especially in this weather, with a fairly sweaty yoga regime and a scalp with a general tendency to become unhappy — or as a first cleanse before following with a gentle shampoo. I say this because, the cleansing agents are gentler and it’s not much of a latherer on its own, and I kind of appreciate that, not having an oily scalp. I will say that it’s an oil enriched gritty scrub texture so I can see many people not loving it as much as I do, but I quite like the nourishing sweet almond oil, coconut oil and fermented ingredients. It’s also a gorgeous oily body scrub that doesn’t irritate my eczema.

Curlsmith Core Strength Shampoo ($34.99 CDN | 355 mL)

Another product really contributing to my scalp not lashing out at me was/is this gentle slippery clear shampoo. It’s sulfate free but contains ingredients that remove silicones and other forms of buildup, which has been helpful because having fine-ish high porosity hair in this kind of humidity, I’ve had to go to town on humidity-blocking ingredients like polyquats, oils and I’ve been using some silicones– gasp.Not only does this keep me from getting any buildup on my scalp — in combination with using a clarifying shampoo every little bit –, it has enough slip, letting me detangle my hair with ease, even after washing. I like that there’s some protein as well, as every little bit helps (although it would help more in a leave-in product). It’s also gentle and moisturizing, without heaviness.

Curlsmith In-Shower Style Fixer ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

As someone who has the kind of hair that requires lots of product or hold to maintain its structure, high porosity hair that seems to absorb everything in sight and high density hair, I love a good potent humidity-blocking gel. Did I mention that I live in a humid east coast climate with hair that is very impacted by humidity?; In fact, my hair’s reaction to humidity was why I embraced my wavy curls in the first place. With high-hold and humidity-blocking polyquaternium-69 as the second ingredient in this gel, followed by sealing oils and the film-forming humectant, aloe, this has been a god-send for lending maximum control to my hair. True to its name, it has to be used with lots of water, provided you want to be able to distribute its super thick and sticky texture — unless you are refreshing a super-stubborn piece of hair and don’t mind the concentration, that is. It’s very moisturizing and is medium-heavy in weight, but my density and porosity can support heavier products. It’s not the most curl enhancing gel I’ve ever tried, but it holds clumps together beautifully through humidity, sweat and even getting rained on slightly. And it gives the hair some grit, which I enjoy but it can destroy curl clumps if over-used.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

I couldn’t go without mentioning my holy grail gel that — happily for me — works well in my high porosity waves in every season, even though I will combine it with the former gel to get extra control, hold, and humidity-resistance, to get hair that lasts for 4-5 days with minimal refreshing, even in borderline-repulsive humidity. This gel is moisturizing but is lighter in weight and has much more slip, offering lots of curl enhancement and bouncy curl clumps. It contains a number of film-forming humectants which I’m sure is why I love this gel so much (irish moss, aloe and flaxseed to name a few); film forming humectants prevent moisture loss in my hair and minimizes the frizz and loss of hold in a humid climate. It’s really flexible too, with medium-strong hold, working well in both soaking wet hair, damp hair to refresh and on dry hair to fix wonky curls.

Pattern Beauty Styling Custard ($32 CDN | 443.6 mL)

While I don’t find this true liquid-y custard to have enough hold on it’s own in my humid climate, I’ve found this huge tub of product to be great as a curl-enhancer to sandwich between cream and gel for some extra help in encouraging clumps and ringlets and adding control. It has some polyquaternium for humidity protection, curl enhancing flaxseed and film-forming irish moss. It’s also a great refresher when you get to the point of needing more product without adding crunch when you aren’t completely drenching your hair. It’s super slippery too, which is a help with fine to medium tangly hair, especially when refreshing on less-than-fresh hair.

Banila Co Clean It Zero Purifying Cleansing Balm for Sensitive Skin ($31 CDN | 100 mL)

I’ve been happily relying on this balm cleanser to remove sunscreen and makeup (on the off-chance that I was wearing it) and to just cleanse my face. It has a light kind of spa-like scent that I find rather calming and doesn’t irritate my skin, even around my eyes when I’m using it to melt down tenacious eye makeup. It’s great at removing waterproof makeup and water-resistant sunscreen and leaves my skin feeling soothed and hydrated afterwards. I have been known to just splash it off and not even follow it with another cleanser when I can’t be bothered — it has not been a summer with a lot of complex skincare rituals in the equation. The evening primrose oil, argan oil, centella, green tea and licorice root are a nice (albeit unnecessary) touch, as is the non-greasy texture.

Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($19.25-$35.25 CDN | 100 mL)

After finishing up some other serums, I’ve been reunited with this snail-based humectant serum. This has been an essential, especially as the weather has been so muggy that I haven’t craved layering more occlusive products and I’ve been really slacking on the skincare in general. The snail itself is very soothing and plumping and is enriched with allantoin, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate, leaving dewy and bright skin. I love this as a humectant serum that really helps to support the skin barrier.

Natasha Denona Zendo Eyeshadow Palette ($87 CDN | 19.25g)

Given that I have been minimally bothered even with skincare in the summer we’ve had here, it shouldn’t be a shocker that I haven’t worn a whole lot of makeup, either. When I’ve been wearing makeup, I’ve exclusively reached for this palette. I have discovered that particularly love when doing basic 2-3 eye shadow looks with this palette, as the finishes and subtle nuances of the shades really stand out with a more pared-down palette. The shimmers have gorgeous sheens that can lean somewhat metallic but the payoff is buildable and the mattes have that muted buildable quality as well. That is not to say that there aren’t bolder buttery metallics in the teal section of the palette, but in all honesty, I’ve been enjoying the more muted warm tones of the palette with a bit of winged liner.

The Empties | Early Spring

Mark my words, I know that it’s been well over a month since spring officially started. However, until somewhat recently it’s been blizzard-ing, so forgive me if I consider it still pretty early(ish) in the spring season. I used to worry these posts were boring to read, as I rarely used to finish up much of anything and there was little variety of what I did finish up, always trying out new things, rather than finishing what I had on the go. However, in the last couple of years, I have become a more savvy and restrained shopper, buying less and finishing more:

Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Cleansing Balm ($28 US | 103 mL)

After disliking the Paula’s Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil, I’m happy to report that I loved this balm cleanser for nourishing the skin and breaking down makeup and sunscreen. It broke down waterproof eyeliner, mascara and tenacious face products easily enough — but it wasn’t an annihilator in the way that some of these super-oily balms are — with easy-to-use tube packaging and nourishing non-irritating ingredients. It’s fragrance free, doesn’t contain any irritants and actually features lots of fatty acids and some nourishing plant oils to offset any sort of barrier disruption while cleansing. It doesn’t leave a film or anything afterwards. I would buy again, with some sort of sale.

Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser ($57 CDN | 120 mL)

This is my expensive treatment cleanser of choice and I went onto another back-up that I purchased on sale shortly, after emptying the tube. It’s an oil-rich cream cleanser that removes makeup, soothes the skin without being drying in the slightest. It has a subtle fragrance that doesn’t bother my skin because it doesn’t come from essential oils and is enriched with honey, lactic acid and goat’s milk, along with the grapeseed oil, avocado oil and coconut oil. My favourite part is that my skin is left calmer and moisturized after rinsing.

Kate Somerville Delikate Soothing Cleanser ($57 CDN | 120 mL)

This was a fine gentle fragrance-free milk cleanser but was nowhere near special enough to justify the cost for me. It wasn’t irritating or drying whatsoever and removed easily but it didn’t deliver long-lasting soothing or hydration like the former. It contains fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol, aloe and miscellaneous other soothing and barrier-repairing ingredients. It kind of reminded me of Cerave’s cleansers with slightly less of a tendency to sting on an impaired barrier. 

Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum ($108 CDN | 30 mL)

Last year, I picked up a half-sized sample of this lactic-acid based serum and I’ve happily been using it around 3-4 times per week as a chemical exfoliant and serum in one. It contains 10% lactic acid which helps with overall clarity, brightness and smooths texture, along with amino acids and peptides for hydration and barrier-reinforcement. It’s lighter in texture but contains squalane and some nice rich plant oils along with the myriad of humectants it has. I repurchased a full-size; it’s expensive but lasts a while and is special.

Cosrx Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence ($40.99 CDN | 80 mL)

I did love using this plumping brightening humectant serum, however, going for the niacinamide-enriched version of the essence was completely unnecessary for me, as I have multiple other niacinamide-rich brightening serums on the go. I do love me some niacinamide… This is a dual chamber version of their cult favourite fragrance-free essence, with snail secretion in the one chamber and 5% niacinamide in the other. It also contained panthenol, medowfoam seed oil, sunflower seed oil, allantoin, macadamia oil, sodium hyaluronate and argan oil. I found my skin looked bouncy, plumped and soothed while using this serum but I sometimes had to watch to make sure I wasn’t overdoing it on the niacinamide. I will be repurchasing the original version of the essence that is even more economical.

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Firming Moisturizer ($89 CDN | 50 mL)

I ended up trying this pricy moisturizer because it was sold in the set with the serum, and while I ended up liking it, I’m really not sure it’s special enough for the price for me. It has a lovely comforting plumping texture that’s moisturizing and hydrating without feeling occlusive in the slightest. I enjoyed the myriad of peptides and amino acids it contains to help support the skin barrier and help to bind moisture into the skin and the plumping cushion-y texture, but I didn’t find it concentrated enough or special enough to warrant repurchasing at this price. I did enjoy the airless pump packaging and the lack of fragrance or other irritants.

Kate Somerville Delikate Recovery Cream ($99 CDN | 50 mL)

This is another pricy moisturizer I finished, but on the other hand, it’s special enough to warrant repurchasing, especially when we’re lucky enough to be able to find it on significant sale. It’s a whipped balm that sinks into the skin without stinging in the slightest, soothing the skin and supporting the skin’s barrier — especially a damaged one, like mine certainly tends to be. The texture spreads really far, only requiring a little bit of product, even on my drier and tighter skin, and it offers moisture, comfort and repair without leaving a shiny finish. It features shea butter, ceramides, honey, peptides, plant oils and other soothing ingredients. It’s also beautiful under makeup, helping to minimize the appearance of dry patches and any sort of texture. It also doubles as a wonderful eye cream for those with a sensitive eye area and is wonderful for calming the skin after an allergic reaction. It’s been that kind of spring thus far.

Cosrx Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream ($32.57 CDN | 25 mL)

I loved this gentle, fragrance-free eye cream for my delicate and sensitive eye area so much so that I went through it more quickly than I could have, occasionally using on my face in addition to the eye area. I will be repurchasing for sure. It contains snail mucin, niacinamide, sunflower seed oil, sodium hyaluronate and a few peptides. It’s good for plumping up and hydrating the eye area without irritation and wears great under makeup — and I have dry sensitive under eyes that tend to get eczema and allergy-induced irritation.

Sunday Riley Juno Antioxidant + Superfood Face Oil ($95 CDN | 35 mL)

This was one of the first good essential-oil-free oil blends on the market and it remains to be a longtime favourite of mine. Sunday Riley used ‘superfood’ in its actual meaning — as in harvested from fruits and cold-pressed with a variety of antioxidants — and not as a wellness culture bullshit hype-word, which I appreciate. I’ve long-term appreciated the omega rich blend of oils for soothing, antioxidant protection, locking in moisture and helping to eradicate dry patches. I do not tolerate essential oils well so I’ve always appreciated that this was blended without, without skimping on the benefits of these fruit oils. I’d buy again, especially if I found it on for another deal but I might explore more affordable options, even though the bottle does last for ages. I quite like smelling like a salad dressing, which is precisely the scent the natural oils have without essential oils in the mix.

Paula’s Choice Resist Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 ($35 US | 60 mL)

I was really slacking on the sunscreen front over the winter, mainly due to laziness. Once I got myself in gear this season, I found myself finishing a tube of the semi-matte finish tinted sunscreen that I had on the go. Because of the slightly mattifying semi-matte finish of the sunscreen, I tend to need to moisturizer underneath. However, the slightly blurring and smoothing finish coupled with the sheer light beige tint, is really flattering on naked skin. I have a backup and I’ll happily enjoy using as it gets hot and humid over the warmer months. It contains a bunch of antioxidants as well, which I enjoy seeing in a sunscreen.

Cerave Moisturizing Cream ($27.99 CDN | 539 mL)

This cream is probably the closest thing I’ve found to an eczema cure with consistent use. It helps to keep the dry and itchy skin at bay that I scratch and turn into a hot mess. The formula is bland, with fatty alcohols, three kinds of ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone and petrolatum. It stings less than most creams on the market — I’m prone to stinging — and contains ingredients to help rebuild and reinforce the skin barrier. It’s probably a forever repurchase from me. I also love the jar with a pump on it packaging; the pump is super easy to use and it’s practical to be able to screw off the lid to get the remnants out of the container.

Soap & Glory The Righteous Butter Body Butter ($18 CDN | 300 mL)

If I’m not using a fragrance-free barrier-repairing kind of body moisturizer, I’m using one of the Soap and Glory options as a treat because I can actually tolerate them on my eczema prone body, as they have a rich emollient texture and contain fragrance that I love, that isn’t essential oil based, which poses the greatest problem for me personally. My skin can be a bit of a diva, evidently. It’s a warm citrusy floral scent that I find super comforting and the formula has shea butter, coconut oil, cocoa seed butter, glycerin and rosehip oil to help prevent trans epidermal waterloss and the itchy feeling from returning to my body skin. It’s a favourite for a reason. I also enjoy that it’s rich enough to actually make a difference and for me not to go through the tub so quickly.

Curlsmith Wash & Scrub Detox Pro-Biotic ($37.99 CDN | 250 mL)

Another one bites the dust; I’ve finished another tube of my favourite clarifying shampoo. It doesn’t contain traditional sulfates so it’s not overly drying or stripping but it does enough to keep my scalp from getting itchy and flaky and keeps my waves and loose curls looking great. Another bonus is that it doesn’t turn my hair into tangle city, as most clarifying shampoos do. It contains perlite to gently exfoliate the scalp (without real traditional scrub particles that can be irritating), probiotic ingredients to help strengthen the skin barrier — which is obviously a priority of mine after reading this post –, apple cider vinegar and gentler clarifying agents with the ability to remove silicones and heavy oils. It will be another repurchase for sure.

Briogeo Curl Charisma Rice Amino + Avocado Hydrating & Defining Hair Mask ($49 CDN | 236 mL)

Another long-term favourite of mine are these Briogeo masks and deep conditioners. This one was a primarily hydrating mask (that packed a punch despite being lightweight), with some protein, in the form of amino acids in the mix. Interestingly enough, it’s actually advertised as being protein free, despite the fact that there are amino acids high on the ingredient list, and scattered throughout; regardless, I don’t think it’s protein-rich enough to trigger alarm in those with a protein sensitivity. It’s moisturizing and hydrating, with wonderful slip that glides through the knottiest of strands (I can confirm this from experience) while being lightweight yet concentrated. It features sodium PCA, rice amino acids, avocado oil, castor seed oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, linseed oil, chia seed oil, keratin amino acids, rice extract and hydrolyzed quinoa. I found after using that my curls had a bit of a boost, clumping nicely together. I’m currently using their original mask, but I would definitely consider picking up this one again.

Curlsmith Feather-Light Protein Cream ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This was my second or third tube of what I would have to describe as my holy-grail curl cream. Despite its name, it’s a medium moisture but fairly lightweight curl cream with a hefty dose of protein. I’m onto another tube of this curl cream, as it’s reached backup status in my collection. It simultaneously enhances curls with some bounce, adds control and keep clumps defined and intact. It offers light buildable hold on its own, which makes it great for refreshes, using on its own or layering under a gel, as I do in my humid climate on my high porosity strands. It can give a bit of a fluffier look when used on it’s own, which I’ve grown to enjoy the texture and volume from at this point in my hair journey; this is less of a factor when paired with a harder hold gel. It uses sweet almond oil, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed hemp seed extract and shea butter for a good protein-moisture balance on my fine, high porosity but abundant strands.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($55.99 CDN | 473 mL)

My go-to combination of stylers on any wash day that I know will give me great results is the previously mentioned cream in combination with this gel-souffle. It’s more of a medium weight gel, offering medium moisture, curl enhancement, humidity-resistance, medium-strong hold and good control. It’s a super concentrated product so this jumbo size squeeze-bottle lasts for months even on my thirsty high porosity waves and curls and it helps encourage my waves and loose curls into a more defined spiral-y shape and it helps my hair to last 3-4 days with minimal refreshing. It uses glycerin, babassu, irish moss, linseed extract, andiroba seed oil and avocado oil and is the most moisturizing gel that I’ve ever tried, without weighing down my fine waves and curls. Seeing as this is my most repurchased hair product of all time, it’s not shocking that I just opened another one of these jumbo-sized bottles for the warmer weather months…

What products have you finished up?
Maggie, x.

21 Products of 2021

I’m doing it! For the last number of months, I’ve had a list in the works of products I discovered and fell in love with in 2021. Every year — I think but don’t mark my words, I might have missed one — I’ve been writing a blog post detailing my favourites from at least one category of beauty, it’s been some time since I did a whole roundup. It might be coming late, but it’s here!

Curlsmith Wash & Scrub Detox Pro-Biotic ($37.99 CDN | 250 mL)

This uber-gentle scrub-come-shampoo is my clarifying shampoo of choice. I don’t experience any build up (even with my more richer products used and heavy hand) using this every couple of wash days and have a happy scalp that doesn’t randomly start itching and flaking (which I’m prone to especially in the winter). It doesn’t contain either of the harsher sulfates that can be stripping (and you know give me dermatitis so there’s that) but can still remove build-up from silicones, oils and the like with the selection of potent but still gentler detergents it contains. I don’t really care about the vinegar and probiotic ingredients used because I don’t think they have enough contact with the hair to lead to benefit but I appreciate the humectants and other hydrating ingredients that keeps the shampoo gentle. This doesn’t ever leave my curls and waves stripped or looking less defined, even without a deep conditioner afterwards.

Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Yogurt Hydrate + Repair Shampoo ($11.96 CDN | 384 mL)

This was my favourite gentle shampoo that I happily used in between uses of the more clarifying Curlsmith shampoo. It was actually a rediscovery rather than a discovery, but it’s so great, even if a regular shampoo might seem quite boring. It doesn’t contain the traditional sulfates that are prone to giving me scalp dermatitis and are overly drying, instead containing a blend of gentler surfactants, including cocomidopropyl betaine that is really good at removing silicones and oil buildup, shea butter, honey, yogurt, matura seed oil, baobab seed oil and coconut oil. The result is a really gentle shampoo that lathers without tangling up the hair and while providing slip. The scent is a lot but it’s a nice calming perfume-y one. It hits the right balance of cleaning the scalp and removing some buildup, while being gentle and moisturizing. It’s also nice that it’s affordable and lasts me months and months.

Pureology Hydrate Sheer Conditioner ($40 CDN | 266 mL)

For years, I’ve basically put regular rinse-out conditioners to the side, preferring to use deep conditioners in the place of a rinse-out. However, this was the year when not only did I get into using regular rinse-out conditioners, I actually have gotten to the point with my hair that I can rinse out all of my conditioner. This minty conditioner does contain isopropyl alcohol but this is not an issue, provided that you are rinsing it out. It has amazing slip, great medium but lightweight moisture with oils, hydrolyzed wheat protein and wheat amino acids and contains menthol and peppermint oil for a soothing and comforting minty sensation and smell. I avoid menthol and anything minty in skincare but I enjoy it, especially for soothing a scalp that is less than pleased. It detangles snarls like a champ and leads to great curl clumping. I’ve thought about actually going for a salon size of this conditioner, I’ve enjoyed it so much — and you get way better value with the salon sizes.

Briogeo Curl Charisma Hydrating & Defining Hair Mask ($49 CDN | 236 mL)

Given how well my fine but dense waves respond to protein, I’m kind of shocked (on a level) that my top deep conditioner discovery of the year only contains small amounts of protein and instead focuses on moisture. It’s a great one for adding a bit of strength with the moisture and TLC it brings. It has a nice light scent that most likely won’t bother anyone, offers out of this world slip and solid medium moisture without being heavy at all, even on finer textures with less density that I have. It features the humectant sodium pca, rice amino acids, avocado oil, castor seed oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, linseed seed oil, chia seed oil, keratin amino acids, rice extract and hydrolyzed quinoa (at the very bottom of the ingredient list). It’s not protein free like it claims, but instead features mainly amino acids which support the strength of the hair and building of proteins overall and a very small amount of a hydrolyzed protein. My hair soaks this stuff up and I’m always left with juicy, smooth clumpy curls afterwards.

Curlsmith Feather-Light Protein Cream ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This cream styler has a lotion texture and offers medium moisture, lightweight weight and structure to the hair with the protein it contains. I actually have managed to use this on its own offering light-buildable hold, but prefer to use it with a gel for hold that lasts in a generally pretty humid coastal climate. This gets my waves and curls to clump and spiral up with that kind of effortless fluffy kind of effect on its own. It’s also a great product for refreshes, as it offers enough hold to bring back definition and clumps without requiring Herculean effort to remove the cast. I’ve used multiple tubes this year.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($55.99 CDN | 473 mL)

This was my most used and loved gel of the year and was a great combination in my hair with the previously mentioned cream. I’ve graduated from the tubs of product to the larger squeeze bottle — which is much easier to use and get a precise amount of product out — because I love using it so much. It’s a protein-free gel with a thicker milkier soufflé-gel kind of texture — it’s super weird to explain but this is my best attempt — that offers medium control, on the higher end of medium moisture, a ton of definition and curl enhancement. My favourite way to use it is over a cream but I can get great results used on its own, as well. The hold is medium-strong, depending on how much you apply and how much water is in your hair when you apply it. It’s super moisturizing with glycerin, babassu oil, sorbitol, irish moss, andiroba seed oil, flaxseed and avocado oil, and leaves the hair moisturized, bouncy, shiny and defined in a way that lasts in humidity. And, my hair still has volume when I use this, along with glorious curl clumps.

Ion 9 Row Silicone Brush ($17.39 CDN)

2021 was the year that I figured out exactly how to use the ‘denman’ style brush or how to brush style in general. Nailing the technique of brushing through my wet hair with tension helps me to get controlled curls with bounce that last. There was a moment when how to form ringlets and spirals around the side of the brush really clicked and I started to consistently have good wash days that didn’t require much refreshing. It’s the right size on my wavy hair for encouraging clumpy ringlets and also works to define my hair when brushed with tension before styling.

Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer ($499.99 CDN)

Towards the end of 2020, I bit the bullet and purchased the Dyson dryer after much deliberation, after I had the opportunity to get $100 off. Safe to say, I liked it at first but now I can say that it’s been worth it on my hair. It’s basically the only dryer I’ve ever tried that I can stand to use long enough to get my hair dry because it’s light, and powerful enough to diffuse my hair. Note: I have the kind of hair that hairdressers complain about how long it takes to dry. Not only does it get my hair dry, it offers settings that allow me to get my hair to dry without disrupting my curl clumps that can easily fall apart, and it gets my hair dry without tiring out my arms. It seems ridiculous to have a hair dryer as a favourite, but here we are. Basically it allows me to actually get my hair dried before bed, letting me have better wash days that last, rather than wilting or frizzing out.

Drunk Elephant Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser ($45 CDN | 110g)

While I’m not a fan of a lot of Drunk Elephant’s customer relations and PR choices and marketing, I do really like this product (and another one I’m going to mention), especially as someone whose skin is sensitive to essential oils, fragrance and drying alcohols. This is a true oily balm that decimates makeup, has a truly nourishing texture and leaves my skin feeling soothed afterwards. It is also not an eye stinger. It uses safflower seed oil, açai oil, marula oil, sunflower seed wax, kiwi extract, strawberry extract, cranberry seed oil, borage seed oil, baobab oil, sweet almond oil and more to soothe and replenish the skin while breaking down makeup and sunscreen. It has a thick texture which i enjoy and I particularly enjoy the spoon magnetized to the top of the packaging for scooping the product out — because we all know I would have instantly lost the scoop if it weren’t attached magnetically.

Dr Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence ($43.69 CDN | 150 mL)

This milky essence toner has been a standby in my more pared back skincare routine I enjoyed in 2021. It’s soothing, hydrating, moisturizing and plumping. It contains a whack of emollients, some antioxidants, sodium hyaluronate and centella asiatica. It make such a difference on sandwiching moisture that lasts into my drier skin, especially over the cooler weather.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule 5x ($37.29 CDN | 50 mL)

This serum has become my no-fuss nightly serum for when I want one serum that will help with my barrier, brighten and generally support my skin health. It contains 5% niacinamide, which minimizes discolouration, helps keep pores clear and supports the skin barrier, what seems like a million humectants, some probiotic soothing ingredients and a few essential oils towards the bottom of the ingredient list. It has contributed to keeping my skin comfortable, soothed and happy and I enjoy not having to think about the serum step and just slap this serum on. I’m not a big essential oil person, but this doesn’t irritate my skin and feels really calming to apply.

Cosrx Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence ($33.49 CDN | 80 mL)

This essence, like many products these days, features 5% niacinamide which supports the skin barrier, functions as an antioxidant and does a little bit of everything, along with wonderfully reparative snail secretion, betaine, panthenol, sunflower seed oil, allantoin and macadamia seed oil. It’s the most plumping humectant serum that I think I’ve ever dried and very calming and gentle. When I’m not using the aforementioned serum, I was certainly using this one. It’s fragrance-free and doesnt contain anything weird, you know, except for the snail goo.

Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum ($108 CDN | 30 mL)

I backed off and kind of chilled out with the actives in 2021, but this was the chemical exfoliant I happily reached for the most often. It’s a serum that contains 10% lactic acid to resurface the skin and boost hydration, along with a robust blend of peptides, which both serve as humectants and strengthen the skin barrier, amino acids that also support the skin barrier and nourishing ingredients, such as antioxidant-rich plant oils. It’s expensive and might not be easily worth the money, especially if you are hesitant to invest in the Drunk Elephant brand from past decisions the company has made, but it’s a multitasking serum that does all of its functions well. It gives me much more even textured-skin, keeps my pores unclogged and functions as a humectant serum that binds water to the skin and supports my skin’s easily upset barrier.

Kate Somerville Delikate Recovery Cream ($99 CDN | 50 mL)

This moisturizer might be housed in a jar and be pricy to boot, but with its airy whipped balm texture and instantly soothing effect on the skin, it’s worth it for me. In fact, I actually have a couple of backups and I was lucky enough to find each and every jar for a significant sale. It never stings or irritates my skin, regardless of what kind of irritated state its been put in. It’s fragrance-free, contains ceramides, shea butter, honey, plant oils and calming extracts. It’s a cushioning cream without being thick and heavy and wears wonderfully under makeup on my drier skin that foundation tends to sit heavily on.

Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Mild Milk SPF 50 PA++++ for Sensitive Skin ($46.49 CDN | 60 mL)

In my experience, this is the ideal water-light sunscreen fluid for those who’s skin is typically too dry and too reactive to tolerate these fluids. It’s a combination sunscreen, containing titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide, along with the new generation chemical filters, Uvinul T-150, Uvinul A Plus and Tinosorb S, that are not only more photostable than traditional ‘chemical’ filters, but are also less irritating, too. This is one of the few hybrid or chemical filter containing sunscreens that does not sting my face, eyes or dry out my skin. I attribute this to it being formulated without the drying alcohols used to either stabilized the actives or get the water-light texture, being fragrance-free and using actives known to be easier to tolerate. It leaves a soft focus finish, setting on the skin without being overly drying or matte looking in the least and lasts in humidity and sweat.

Purito Cica Clearing BB Cream SPF 38 PA +++ ($12.59 CDN | 30 mL)

As someone who has grown to love lighter bases and did not wear a whole lot of makeup in the previous year, I’ve happily clung to this lightweight face product as a tinted sunscreen of sorts. Don’t get me wrong, it has substantial medium coverage, but blends really nicely into the skin, leaving a radiant finish that actually works during a heatwave and/or heavy sweating sessions, even without being powdered or blotted or anything of the sort. It’s a combination sunscreen, consisting of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and octinoxate (one of the only traditional filters that I can tolerate), along with niacinamide, the forms of centella asiatica the formula boasts having to reduce irritation and strengthen the skin barrier and iron oxides, to add an added layer of protection against visible light.

Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 ($62 CDN | 30 mL)

I’m pretty sure the only other base product I used in 2021 was this other variation on a tinted moisturizer come tinted sunscreen. It’s formulated without fragrance or alcohol, and is enriched with squalane, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate and allantoin and has a broad-spectrum zinc oxide for sun protection. As far as tinted sunscreens go, this sits more on the makeup-y side of things, coming in thirty different shades and offering a luminous-to-dewy finish and light coverage. I knew I wanted to try this foundation-thing as soon as I heard about it but I had to wait a while for it to be available in Canada and I wasn’t wrong. Unlike most serum foundations, it sits well on my drier skin, doesn’t cling to texture and blends pretty seamlessly into the skin, feeling lightweight.

Kosas Revealer Super Creamy + Brightening Concealer and Daytime Eye Cream ($37 CDN | 6 mL)

As someone who suffers from hereditary dark circles, a bone structure that makes dark circles and product settling into creases a reality and a dry, sensitive eye area, I know I’m making a lot of work for my concealer. However, when I’m wearing makeup, I always wear concealer under my eyes and this is one of the ones that works without making any of my problems worse. It settles into creases minimally — I haven’t met a concealer that doesn’t do this on my deep set eyes –, doesn’t cling to dry patches or dry out and/or irritate my sensitive eye area. The clean beauty marketing is not my thing, but I enjoy that it does not contain drying alcohol or pounds of masking fragrance. It’s medium coverage but looks like skin and works on patches without perfect texture; I will say that the shade range does, in fact, run horrifically yellow. It’s moisturizing with a blendable, skin-like finish.

Huda Beauty Naughty Nude Eyeshadow Palette ($85 CDN | 0.59 ounces)

I purchased this fairly pricy eyeshadow palette towards the end of 2020 and it’s been my eyeshadow palette standby ever since. The shades pretty much all lean warm — but without being a copper sunset — and sit mainly in the medium-tone family. However, there are deeper shades thrown in to make things smokier, darken the outer corner and to even create winged liner with and there are a few paler shades to add dimension and contrast. It’s not groundbreaking but it’s a great palette for those who like neutral-warm and leaning smokey shadows. There’s a wack of pretty light-to-mid tone metallic shades for the lids, a variety of options of matte crease, out of corner and plain old deeper shades and some more interesting shades, while still being a palette that blends like a dream without being fallout central. I like it for easy two eyeshadow looks and it also is great for more intricate eyeshadow-blending-for-the-soul moments.

Mented Cosmetics Liquid Lipstick in Blood Orange ($26 US | 5.7 mL)

2021 was not a year for lip products for a variety of reasons: one being that I didn’t wear a whole lot of makeup in general, another being that there wasn’t a whole lot of leaving the house and third, lip products were kind of a moot point and inconvenience with all of the mask wearing. My most worn actual lip product was this deep orange-based rusty coloured liquid lipstick. The formula didn’t really transfer onto the mask, wasn’t particularly drying and didn’t wear off unevenly (from my centre of my lips, leaving a ring around the outside). The shade really flattering on my neutral-warm leaning skin, without being too vibrant because of the deepness of the hue. The formula is long-wearing, as you’d expect, but feels lightweight and comfortable.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum ($135 CDN | 50 mL)

This citrus-patchouli warm floral was a fairly new to me purchase in 2021, and it was easily my most worn and favourite fragrance. It comes the closest to the long-discontinued Dior Miss Dior that was my favourite, but has it’s own distinct identity and great longevity. Its notes are orange, bergamot, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, patchouli, white musk, vanilla, tonka bean and vetiver, but warm citrus-y patchouli is the vibe that it gives off. Day to day, I just will spray this on my clothes, the sillage and longevity is so good that it lingers, but on more of an occasion, I’ll happily do a few spritzes.

What were your 2021 favourites?
Maggie, x.

“Fall” Empties | Haircare & Body Care

As promised, I’m continuing on going through the products I’ve finished in between summer and fall this year. As I write this, we are currently expecting a snow storm so as far as the weather is behaving, it is no longer fall on the Canadian east coast. This is actually relevant because despite the cooler temperatures, we actually have a humid winter environment overall. The way I look at it is that even when it’s dry, it’s wet. Onto the products…

Curlsmith Wash & Scrub Detox Pro-Biotic ($37.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This clarifying shampoo has become an ultimate favourite of mine, as in I’m using another tube now and bought a backup. It has a little bit of grit without having harsh scrubby bead-bits in it thanks to the perlite, removes build up like a champ (but bear in mine that I can layer a whole lot of product before build up appears) and most impressively helps with an itchy flaky scalp without tangling or drying out the rest of my fine but dense easily-matted hair. The cleansers remove silicones without irritating my sulfate-sensitive scalp. It has some interesting probiotic ingredients that at the very least serve as humectants and scalp-soothers throughout the washing process and clarifying and balancing vinegar. Also I have great hair days without having to deep condition afterwards.

Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Yogurt Hydrate + Repair Shampoo ($13.99 CDN | 384 mL)

Even though I’m more of a wash-my-hair-twice-per-week kind of girl, this is my favourite daily gentle moisturizing shampoo. It contains four different surfactants that are uber-gentle but possess the ability to remove silicones and other forms of build up. Other noteworthy ingredients are manuka honey, yogurt, shea butter, baobab seed oil, mafura seed oil and coconut oil, which all contribute to the moisturized but not heavy feel this shampoo leaves on my waves. It actually has slip so it doesn’t worsen any knots I may have and cleans my scalp enough for that fresh feeling without drying out my wavy curls. I’m using another bottle at the moment so it’s a definite repurchase.

Garnier Whole Blends Royal Hibiscus & Shea Butter 5-in-1 Curl Conditioner ($9.99 CDN | 355 mL)

Having using regular conditioners instead of religiously going for deep conditioners, I found myself picking this one up when it was on sale, not seeing the dimethicone as the third ingredient, and figuring it was worth a shot, despite the drying alcohol it contains as I’ve gotten to the point where I actually rinse out my conditioner. Colour me surprised to find myself really enjoying this conditioner for the medium moisture it has and the amazing slip it offered so much that I repurchased it. I’m happy to say that it does not weigh down my hair or build up on it at all, with my routine of using sulfate-free shampoos. The pump is actually convenient, dispensing out a good amount of product and I liked the clumping and richness provided by the jojoba seed oil, coconut fruit extract and shea butter. The recyclable packaging and price is also a plus in my book.

Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Deep Conditioning Mask ($49 CDN | 236 mL)

This is my favourite hair mask and it’s certainly not my first empty tub of it. It has ridiculous slip and hydration while leaving the hair with so much bounce and body afterwards. It leaves my hair moisturized, strong and bouncy and my curls defined and springy. It contains some great slip agents, fatty alcohols, argan oil, rosehip oil, hydrolyzed proteins, radish root ferment and biotin. I will be repurchasing, as it’s my favourite deep conditioner, whether just used in the shower or left on for a while with heat. It’s concentrated too and applies evenly on my fine porous hair that tends to just absorb everything.

Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Honey Moisture Deep Conditioning Mask ($49 CDN | 236 mL)

As someone who usually loves richer and heavier deep conditioners, I was surprised to find out that I did not love this honey-infused version of my favourite deep conditioner. It has a heavier perfumery smell that I don’t enjoy as much, loses much of the slip it has, doesn’t go as far as it doesn’t evenly distribute throughout the hair while being heavier. Also this bear shape container is kind of a nuisance. I got it in a value set last year — as it seems to only be available seasonally — so I’m not super upset about it, but it was a weird disappointment for me. It was a fine deep conditioner but nothing like any of the other Briogeo deep conditioners I’ve tried.

Curlsmith Feather-Light Protein Cream ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This has to be my favourite curl cream (and that says a lot because I enjoy quite a few) and I have two backups for it but the name is a bit of a misnomer, in my experience. Whilst it lends a fluffy and airy effect to the hair especially when used on its own, it’s not one of those super super light creams. It’s more of a medium moisture cream with a lotion consistency that manages to clump curls together, add some control and enhance spirals. The hydrolyzed protein adds some spring to my fine waves and curls, the pvp adds light hold on its own and can be used as such and the sweet almond oil and shea butter add the moisture my thirsty hair craves. I don’t avoid glycerin but if you try to minimize it, this might be a good option as it’s at the bottom of the ingredient list.

Bounce Curl Avocado & Rose Oil Clump and Define Cream ($35.99 CDN | 117 mL)

This cream is another one that I enjoyed offering at least medium moisture, great curl clumps and a mouthwatering musky scent. It’s super concentrated so you don’t need a ton of product — but as a wavy I do still get volume and bounce with this — but it’s majorly expensive for the amount that you get. I can see why so many people love it, as it preserves the formation of big juicy curl clumps, adds a bit of hold and nourishes the hair with avocado seed oil, murumuru seed butter, shea butter, rose oil and more. I did enjoy using it but I can’t think about repurchasing it with multiple creams on the go at the moment. This could definitely be a good winter option for thirsty tresses, though, and the effect it gives is controlled, shiny clumped curls.

Curlsmith Hydro Style Flexi Jelly ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

This is a lightweight (but moisturizing) slippery gel with flexible medium-strong hold that I tend to pair with a cream, but could probably work on its own — and I’m a self-professed cream styler addict. True to its marketing, it’s moisturizing with water-soluble castor oil, sodium hyaluronate and panthenol without adding any weight or heaviness. I had some great wash days with this gel and it left my loose curls and waves with spirals, bounce, body and flexible hold. It also doesn’t take a ridiculous amount of time to dry. I repurchased this gel, but it isn’t my holy grail soul hair gel. It would be amazing for fine hair that very prone to being weighed down and experiencing buildup; while my hair is fine, I typically can handle heavier products because I have so much hair and because I have hair that benefits from a bit more control in my products. It’s great for that airy look, however, and I get great wash days with this. Glycerin is super low on the ingredient list so it would be good for those who are very impacted by the ingredient in high and low dew points.

Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Hydrating Lotion ($22.59 CDN | 170 mL)

In the past, I swore by the hyaluronic acid based products in this Japanese line but the last two that I’ve bought, I’ve ended up finishing up on the body. This one has a super-rich gel consistency, containing seven different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea but can sometimes pill weirdly or interact weirdly on the face in combination with a bunch of other skincare products. It’s no longer my favourite humectant serum or milky toner for my face but it was great underneath my moisturizer on my body, that is perpetually dry itchy and flaky. This is still a great humectant, though, even though I think I’ve moved past it for my face at least.

Cerave Itch Relief Moisturizing Cream ($27.97 CDN | 340 g)

This has become one of my favourite daily body moisturizers for my eczema that has definitely flared up throughout the cooler weather. It’s a slightly different nuance on their classic cream with the addition of the analgesic pramoxine hydrochloride to discourage itching and the addition of shea butter as an emollient as a main ingredient. It doesn’t sting on irritated patches of skin and leaves the skin moisturized for hours. I’d repurchase and I have in the past but at the moment I’m using their classic cream happily.

What products have you used up?
Maggie, x.

The Summer Essentials

It might be officially fall now, but before getting onto the lovely symptoms that the change of seasons gives me, I thought I would catch up on the products I loved throughout this hot and humid Summer we had. I’m one of those girls who adores fall, but before I get onto those seasonal-central products, let’s do a roundup of warm weather favourites:

Paula’s Choice Omega + Complex Cleansing Balm ($28 US | 103 mL)

I did not need to add another cleanser to my cleanser rotation this summer, but I couldn’t resist picking this one up. I might have only worn makeup a handful of times over the season, but I really appreciated how well this cleansing balm broke down my tenacious sunscreen. It has the ease of being housed in a tube — and isn’t impossible to squeeze out — and is fragrance free so it doesn’t upset my skin or sensitive eyeballs and breaks everything down like a dream. It actually easily removed waterproof mascara, which I so very rarely use, mainly out of the fear of having to remove it . The fatty acids its enriched with also add to the soothed, comforted feel it leaves behind.

Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen Mild Milk for Sensitive Skin SPF 50 PA++++ ($43.69 CAD | 60 mL)

In such a hot and muggy summer and since doing yoga five times per week, — at least a few of which I get super sweaty during — I’ve come to appreciate this velvety liquid sunscreen. It’s a combination sunscreen, featuring zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, Uvinol A Plus, Tinosorb S and Uvinul T 150, and has great photostability and reliability in independent testing, all without irritating my skin in the way that chemical filters tend to. It has that velvety finish that everyone enjoys but without irritating and over-drying my skin out with drying alcohol and has the most minute white cast that dissipates on its own and reapplies nicely. The sunscreen isn’t drying when layered on top of other skincare and I enjoyed how the sunscreen felt on my skin in the heat and sweat and that it doesn’t run into my eyeballs and make me cry painful tears.

Dr Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence ($37.89 CAD | 150 mL)

Essences are a weird skincare product; I love them but they are weird. They either are super-watery products that you pat into the skin immediately after washing (think a first essence) or are a variation on the serum theme, with a real focus on a single or a few key ingredients. This one falls into the latter group and my lord, is it moisturizing. It contains your usual glycerin, green tea extract and water, saccharomyces ferment filtrate, sunflower seed oil, centella asiatica and ceramide np. It has a really interesting kind of biphase texture that turns from the tea-coloured liquid to a calming milk. In my experience, it’s a soothing, calming, hydrating and moisturizing dream. I loved it in the hot and humid weather and I’m sure I’ll be ready to express my eternal devotion to it in cooler temperatures. In the summer, I used it as a serum underneath moisturizer or on its own when I was feeling lazier, and I know I’ll be happily piling it under anything in following months…

Ion 9 Row Silicone Brush ($17.39 CAD)

Even dealing with quite frankly the most ridiculous humidity this summer and starting working out five times week and getting sweaty, I’ve actually probably gotten to the best place with my wavy curls this summer that I maybe ever had. A big part of this is attaining good wash day results after using the denman-esque brush to coil my hair and form curl clumps and spirals that last. Most wash days I use this brush to form spirals and enhance my curl pattern with a curl cream, before scrunching with a gel. This brush has definitely helped me achieve tousled, fluffy loose curls.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($35.99 CAD | 237 mL)

The first half of the season, I think I exclusively used this as my gel, which is why I actually ended up converting to the jumbo sized bottle. It’s one of those gels that offers medium flexible hold and is actually curl enhancing and clumping by its own right. I get the best results by applying it to my hair after removing excess water with a microfibre towel first and get a slight cast that disappears on its own post drying or diffusing. It’s a glycerin-heavy gel but it performs well enough in humidity if you don’t mind the fluffy look, probably because it’s moisturizing with babassu oil, sorbitol, linseeds, avocado oil and shea butter. Basically the film-forming humectants and oils it contains make it perform well in heat and humidity. This gel has given me some of my most juiciest spirals and clumps and plenty of curl compliments, with its odd custard-y texture.

Pattern Beauty Curl Gel ($32 CAD | 289.8 mL)

Towards the end of the summer, I got the opportunity to try this highly acclaimed gel through FabFitFun and I couldn’t resist giving it a go basically the second the box arrived. I will note that it worked as well on my long loose curls as it does for the tighter types that it was certainly created for. It’s a cream gel kind of texture with medium hold and is very moisturizing. It helps to clump curls together but didn’t weigh my hair down by any means, which makes sense because I think it was intended for big airy but defined curls, rather than a flatter more helmet-y controlled kind of curl. It’s another glycerin heavy gel with aloe, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat amino acids and hydrolyzed silk. It offers maybe medium hold but leaves the curls defined, soft and easily refreshed days later.

Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum ($85 CAD | 10 mL)

I was not doing a whole lot of perfume during the season, as it was just so hot and humid and I was doing so much swimming that it seemed like a moot point. I tended to only reach for perfume for evenings or the rare actual occasions and I found myself reaching for this expensive perfume. Now, I was happy to be able to try the private blend in this smaller spray, as they are majorly expensive but it is the perfect warm boozy spicy vanilla that doesn’t actually read masculine. It lasts for weeks on clothing and forever on the skin without being headache-y. I can only imagine liking it more in cooler weather.

Kosas Revealer Super Creamy + Brightening Concealer and Daytime Eye Cream ($37 CAD | 6 mL)

While it has been rare for me to wear makeup at all in the season, I did reach for this concealer basically every time that I did. It’s hydrating, has good ingredients, creases incredibly minimally and does not highlight texture or dryness. The mica it contains provides some light reflection, the arnica should theoretically be soothing, the caffeine is brightening and anti-inflammatory and the peptide it contains, sodium hyaluronate and squalane are lovely things for my generally dehydrated and flaky skin. It’s great underneath the eyes, with a full face of makeup or minimal makeup and buffed wherever you need it for a foundation-free face. I will say the colours run incredibly yellow and the first shade I bought (3.5W) could easily make me look jaundiced; the second time around, I went for 1.5C, which was lighter and was marketed as having pink undertones, which works wonderfully under my eyes and on the centre of my face. It isn’t actually cool-toned or overly pink though; it’s more neutral warm and slightly yellow …

What products were your standbys this summer?
Maggie, x.

Spring Favourites

I started compiling this post of favourites, back when Spring was a whole lot more wintry than it is at the moment — It’s like 30 degrees right now so it appears we are quickly veering into Summer territory around these parts. I’ve been slowly gathering the products that I’ve been loving and relying heavily upon — most of which are new but there’s a returning favourite or two. I only recently realized that perhaps I let the collection pile enough… Note: I totally thought I had published this months ago…

Clinique Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion ($53 CDN | 200 mL)

This essence toner is so underrated that I wasn’t even sure it was still made. It’s a lightweight essence toner or traditional asian ‘lotion’ that’s perfect to use on the skin immediately after cleansing, or first thing in the morning. It’s fragrance free and doesn’t contain anything irritating, which has been especially important as I’ve been adjusting to using tretinoin. It’s soothing and hydrating, formulated with glycerin, some notable repairing probiotic ingredients, antioxidants like centella asiatica and caffeine, acetyl glucosamine and sodium hyaluronate. This is a light product that adds plumpness, bounce, hydration and radiance to my worn out and sensitized skin.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule ($42.13 CDN | 50 mL)

This k-beauty favourite has been a welcome addition to my serum arsenal. It contains 5% of the wonder ingredient, niacinamide, if my memory serves correct, along with ten probiotic ingredients including bifida ferment lysate and lactobacillus ferment, glycerin, a host of antioxidant-rich ‘superfood’ ingredients, a few plant oils and a ceramide. Quite far down on the ingredient list, it does contain some citrus-derived essential oils but they don’t actually bother my skin – probably from their low concentration. I certainly haven’t been using this serum long enough to see long-term effects, but I definitely see the soothing, anti-inflammatory and moisture-boosting qualities of this serum. I can tell it will provide brightness and barrier-repair long term, which is exactly what my skin needs.

Kate Somerville Kx Concentrates Squalane + Hyaluronic Serum ($129 CDN | 30 mL)

One thing I’ve done in the last six months or so is I’ve started to try to treat my skin as if its not an enemy that needs to be aggressed in order to improve it. Incorporating serums and treatments with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients rather than just dose upon dose of active ingredients has been one of the main ways I’ve done this. This milky serum, while expensive, has been a great way to treat my dry and sensitive skin holistically. It contains squalane, glycerin, panthenol, adenosine, four different types of hyaluronic acid and nothing fragranced or notably problematic. It’s expensive — so I’ve been lucky enough to snag it on sale through FabFitFun and hope to continue purchasing it discounted in the future — but is the hyaluronic acid serum of my dreams. It’s soothing, plumping, hydrating and reparative with a more substantial milk texture. I love using it daily as the last step before my moisturizer.

Face Theory Lumizela Azelaic Acid Serum A10 ($33 CDN | 30 mL)

I’ve tried to get on board with the anti-inflammatory ingredient, azelaic acid, before but I found the ingredient sensitizing with the rest of the actives in my routine and I struggled with the stingy prickly sensation after application. A lot of my skin issues are inflammation based, so I was happy to discover that I could use this milky serum a few times a week without irritation or prickliness. It contains 10% azelaic acid, stabilized with a salicylic acid ester, along with colloidal oatmeal, aloe and green tea. It functions as an antioxidant but I love it for the anti-inflammatory activity it has. As someone who struggles with redness left after blemishes and sensitivity in the centre of my face, I’ve enjoyed reaching for this. The texture is really nice and hydrating on my drier skin, but isn’t heavy.

Kate Somerville DeliKate Recovery Cream ($93 CDN | 50 mL)

I was initially very resistant to buying this moisturizer because it was expensive and was housed in jar packaging, unlike the majority of the moisturizers in the line, thus leaving the ingredients susceptible to losing their stability and potency; however, once I tried this whipped balm moisturizer I could understand the packaging choice completely. The moisturizer is so thick that I assume it was likely difficult to put in the brand’s traditional airless jar. I’ll gladly be repurchasing again, hopefully with some sort of discount code. The texture is precisely like a whipped balm without being overly heavy. It is possibly the least stinging moisturizer I’ve ever tried and is perfect on my pissed off skin that’s currently adjusting to tretinoin and has been suffering from daily mask wearing. I can happily report that this fragrance-free moisturizer is so concentrated that it will lasts months and months on my dry thirsty skin, as minimal product spreads easily. The rich cream contains glycerin, shea butter, a bunch of ceramides, honey, some peptides, cholesterol, green tea extract and a host of other reparative soothing extracts. After use, my skin is calmer, much less tight and with a generally less pissed off skin barrier. This cream is rich but not greasy or heavy and I love that it’s fragrance free.

Cerave Bebe Healing Ointment ($13.49 CDN | 85g)

As someone who is incredibly eczema prone and whose adjustment period to daily mask wearing was a tumultuous one, these healing ointments have greatly improved the quality of my skin life and maybe my life altogether. I had been waiting to try the Cerave traditional ointment to come to Canada for years, so when I saw that the product was available under the baby line, I had to grab it. It’s another petrolatum-based ointment that’s enriched with panthenol, three ceramides and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. It’s a great balm for my sensitive chapped lips, is great to help heal and protect irritated skin around my mouth, nose and chin from mask wearing and soothes eczema and retinoid dermatitis.

Purito Cica Clearing BB Cream ($16.69 CDN | 30 mL)

I’m feeling hesitant to talk about a Purito sunscreen-containing product after the recent Purito (and other Korean sunscreen) controversy. However, this sunscreen-makeup hybrid has been a firm favourite of mine. It comes in three tints and Light Beige — the one I’m using — works well to camouflage any sort of redness or discolouration on my skin with its pale-ish greige cast without clinging to dry patches and somehow making my skin look worse. It’s fragrance and alcohol-free, contains niacinamide, three ‘cica’ ingredients and iron oxides. It’s a combination sunscreen featuring four filters — titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, octinoxate and octisalate — along with the visible light protection of iron oxides. I have worn this mid-day in the sun and actually have faith in the SPF 38 PA+++ protection. This has been a staple everyday tinted sunscreen product, with medium coverage that doesn’t cling to dry patches or bits of texture. The glowy finish is flattering, as well, especially when you’ve pissed off your skin spectacularly.

Clinique Even Better All Over Concealer + Eraser ($33 CDN | 6 mL)

I have a love-hate relationship with concealer overall. I need it to cover my dark circles and I’d like to use it elsewhere, but I find it creases like nothing else in this world, clings to dry patches and looks dry and heavy. Since trying out more moisturizing concealers that aren’t so full-coverage upon first application, such as this one, I’ve been converted. It sheers out nicely underneath my eyes, offering medium but buildable coverage and blends out nicely over large areas of the face — even those with dry patches and uneven texture. I can use it on just specific spots without it looking weirdly different from the rest of my face. I love that this concealer is available in such a variety of shades, doesn’t contain alcohol or fragrance and features niacinamide, urea, three vitamin c derivatives, sodium hyaluronate and peptides, amongst other things. Also, I’ve gotten to the place with my skin that I’m happy just wearing concealer for the first time in my life and this one is ideal for buffing out on my cheeks, chin and around my nose. The ingredients are also really friendly for dry irritated skin, which is something I’m well versed in thanks to mask-wearing and tretinoin use.

Curlsmith Feather-Light Protein Cream ($35.99 CDN | 237 mL)

Curlsmith’s most recently launched curl cream has proven itself as my favourite curl cream — and I’m a girl who adores curl creams of many varieties. It’s moisturizing enough to clump my curls, has protein to encourage bounce and ringlets and is light enough to give that fluffy effect without compromising on definition. It also has a substantial light flexible hold on its own; I pair it with a gel for wash days but I’m sure many use it by itself and use it on its own when I’m restyling or refreshing my hair. It features sweet almond oil, pvp, hydrolyzed rice protein, shea butter and a bunch of plant extracts.

Bioderma Photoderm Milk SPF 50+ ($25.99 CDN | 100 mL)

While I wear sunscreen on my face, neck and surrounding areas all year long, it’s during the Spring, when the weather suddenly becomes a whole lot warmer and sunnier that I’ve fallen back in love with this one. It has a lovely milk texture that’s moisturizing and soothing on my eczema-prone body skin that doesn’t feel greasy or heavy. This sunscreen is a hidden gem available in the Canadian sunscreen market, with incredibly robust UVA protection. It’s a chemical sunscreen — but one with these newer generation filters that are photo stable and much easier to tolerate on sensitive skin — featuring avobenzone, octocrylene, Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S. It’s not water resistant but it’s actually a favourite of mine for a day outdoors with heavy sun exposure because the protection is so good and because I’m actually willing to apply a generous amount. One of the filters is a hybrid filter so it has a slight pale cast that goes away fairly quickly. The formula is impressive, containing the newer generation UVA filters, but being formulated without drying alcohol simultaneously. It’s also a sunscreen I enjoy using on my face, but I primarily use it on my body.

What products have been your staples?
Maggie, x.

Cold-ish Weather Product Empties Part 2

Originally, this was going to be a second empties post to follow up the one I did earlier on in the winter. However, May is now around the corner and, therefore, it is safe to say that this is more of an end of winter, early spring kind of post. Winter may have made its way into spring — for the most part –, but this doesn’t mean that my skin on just about every surface of my body is not still dry, sensitive and likely flaking. Lets get to the products:

Skin & Co Truffle Therapy Whipped Cleansing Cream ($28 US | 100 mL)

I tried this cream cleanser thanks to FabFitFun and I enjoyed using it. The second ingredient was sweet almond oil and I found it removed makeup ridiculously well and had a thick oil-rich feel to the cream cleanser. It also contained some soothing plant extracts including witch hazel, which my skin tends to find sensitizing at times, amongst chamomile, calendula and centella asiatica. I did enjoy the moisture left after using this soap-free cleanser but found it could kind of sting around the lash line and eye area when used for makeup removal. However, there are few cleansers that don’t do that for me. I liked using this but it’s expensive for what it is and I want to explore other cream cleanser options. It contains fragrance, in case I didn’t make that clear, but it smells mainly of the sweet almond oil and something subtle and spa-like.

Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate ($68 CDN | 15 mL)

I would never have tried this eye serum if I hadn’t gone for the Caroline Hirons Summer Kit but I did enjoy using it, even as an eye cream skeptic with a very sensitive eye area. It was a nice kind of oily serum texture that never stung around my eyes, or seemed to irritate my dry eyes themselves. It helped with mask-related flaking and sensitivity around my eyes but I didn’t notice any sort of wow results. It contains glycerin, niacinamide, yeast extract, a ton of peptides, natural moisturizing factors, antioxidants and soothing ingredients. There was an improvement of hydration I noticed and maybe a minor improvement in my chronic dark circles. I don’t plan on repurchasing immediately as it’s not cheap and will likely experiment with some other eye products in the meantime.

Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado ($66 CDN | 28 mL)

Throughout the fall and winter, I developed some eczema around my eyes that never quite went away. Consequently, I’ve been reaching for eye-specific products on the daily and I happily used up this thick fragrance-free balm cream. I’ve had it on the go for over a year — the larger size is actually more economical than you’d expect — and I liked it. It didn’t tend to sting under my eyes, helped with moisture, wasn’t irritating and helped makeup sit nicely, even on my dry and flaky under-eyes. It contains shea butter, avocado oil, hydrogenated castor oil and sodium pca. I wouldn’t necessarily be opposed to buying again but I’m experimenting with different products at present.

Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer ($43 CDN | 150 mL)

I love a good calming milky toner and I’m not sure whether I prefer Paula’s Choice’s milky toners or this one. Regardless, I have had another bottle of this fragrance-free moisturizing toner ready to go for months. It has a simple but nourishing and soothing formula with glycerin, meadowfoam seed oil and white tea leaf extract. It’s a great product to use after cleansing to add hydration and combat inflammation immediately after cleansing. My skin always feels less sensitized, nourished and plump. It also helps that it never stings on my skin, even when I have active eczema on my face.

Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Emulsion ($29 CDN | 140 mL)

Despite the fact that I’ve previously loved this traditional lotion-textured hyaluronic acid, I’m not sure I will repurchase again in this form. It’s affordable, coming with a large amount of product, fragrance-free and contains five different forms of hyaluronic acid, along with glycerin, mineral oil, dimethicone and squalane. In the warmer months, it would be possibly enough to serve as a moisturizer during the day, whilst being a fantastic humectant. However, I find that when it’s layered with a bunch of different serums and moisturizers, it tends to pill. I actually ended up using this on my body throughout the cooler months along with on my face to use up. I actually repurchased the traditional liquid form of this product.

Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($27.99 CDN | 100 mL)

I happily used this gel-textured humectant serum once or twice every day for a good six months. Despite being labelled as an essence, I think it’s thicker than a traditional essence and, instead, is a more gel-textured serum. I would definitely buy again but I’ve ordered the newer dual-chambered formula with niacinamide to try first. It contains 96% snail secretion filtrate in all of its healing and soothing glory, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, arginine and allantoin. This is an amazing humectant serum on irritated skin from wearing a mask, retinoid-abuse and for those suffering from flakiness and dehydration. Using this, my skin was so much more plumped and hydrated and my post inflammatory redness from breakouts seems to be resolving more quickly from daily use.

Caudalie Vinosource Riche Intense Moisture Rescue Cream ($48 CDN | 40 mL)

I’ve been using moisturizers from this range for years and have maybe happily gone through three tubes. It feels like an instant comforting hug in a tube for dry sensitized skin. Weirdly enough, it does contain some synthetic fragrance but never makes my skin sting even when my barrier is the most compromised and when I’ve overdone it the most. It contains squalane, antioxidant-rich grapeseed oil, shea butter, borage seed oil and fatty acids. I have a number of other moisturizers on the go but I don’t want to go without this one. It’s almost impossibly soothing and rich without feeling greasy. This cream is a godsend on sensitized skin with dry flaky patches.

Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer ($35 US | 50 mL)

I shouldn’t have been surprised when the pump on this fluffy comforting cream stopped dispensing product this morning. I should have known from how much I relied on this moisturizer in this fall and winter and past experiences with this pump that it would give out without warning. Happily, I bought multiples last time after it went out of stock for a while. It’s soothing on the skin, doesn’t tend to sting, definitely helps with repairing the skin barrier and acts as a lightweight barrier cream for under a mask. Interestingly enough, it’s silicone free and shea butter based with glycerin, omega-rich plant oils, fatty acids, ceramides, squalane, sodium hyaluronate and nothing typically sensitizing. It sits well under makeup and sunscreens and offers richness and soothing while still being fairly lightweight. I love this stuff and it’s excellent value for money, even at full price and when I calculate the price into Canadian dollars… This is a product that I wish existed and I knew about in my teenage years. It’s brilliant for when your skin is sore and everything stings.

Cerave Itch Relief Cream ($27.99 CDN | 340g)

My primary eczema sites are my legs and arms, so moisturizing religiously is uber important. I’ve really enjoyed using this thick whipped cream. This rich cream tends to only sting very minimally on areas with broken skin. The texture of the cream is rich but it sinks in quickly and the best feature is that while the cream works to repair the barrier, it features 1% pramoxine hydrochloride to numb the itchiness without irritation. It contains glycerin, petrolatum, shea butter, dimethicone and ceramides. I’ve repurchased it already.

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M ($25 CDN | 200 mL)

After I saw the new more eco-conscious cardboard tube packaging, I decided to give this fragrance-free lightweight whipped cream another try. It actually uses citric acid as a preservative, which can be much less irritating than phenoxyethanol and features shea butter, dimethicone, niacinamide, rapeseed oil, vitamin e and extracts with humectant ability. I did find that the cream felt light on the skin to such a degree that I had to use an awful lot of product on my dry body skin and that likely due to the amount of niacinamide, it could sting over more irritated patches. I would use again as a nice everyday moisturizer.

Briogeo Curl Charisma Chia + Flax Seed Coil Custard ($34 CDN | 177 mL)

While it’s called a custard, I found this product a go-to cream with a bit of hold, control and ridiculous clumping. It’s rich but gave good results on my fine mixture of waves and loose curls, helping to hold my spirals together and form in a more controlled fashion. I used this cream every single wash day for months happily and I can confirm, it’s concentrated enough to be worth the money. It contains castor seed oil, fatty alcohols, glycerin, shea butter, rice and keratin amino acids, hydrolyzed quinoa, fermented extracts and a few plant oils. I tend to use this cream paired with a gel but actually does hold up as a single styler. It was an instant repurchase.

Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle ($35.99 CDN | 227g)

Over the past six months, I’ve been trying out Curlsmith products and this true loosely-packed soufflé-texture gel has been among my favourites. It’s concentrated enough that it lasted me months — even using it most wash days — and offered medium-flexible hold that casts nicely with medium weight and medium moisture. For a gel, it’s very curl enhancing and encourages my waves to form spirals, even working well as a single styler. I tended to use it to top a gel for multiple day hair that I didn’t have to think too much about. It contains glycerin, babassu oil, irish moss, flaxseed extract, avocado oil and shea butter. I bought a backup before I even let myself finish this gel.

What have you finished up?
Maggie, x.