A Note on Serums

With the change of the cooler weather, – well at least in the mornings and evenings anyway – I’ve suddenly been forced to get back into that whole skincare she-bang. Why? I was spoiled this summer, not having to put much effort into my skincare routine because my skin was much more hydrated and less irritated than the rest of the year without putting a single product. To be completely fair, the fact that I wasn’t trying new products might have been a contributor. Regardless, the moment that the weather started to cool down, I’ve gotten back into the swing of things. As soon as the weather changed, I’ve been reaching for these serum kinds of products to add beneficial ingredients and hydration to my dehydrated and irritated skin. As I’ve thought about them, I’ve realized how confusing they are to navigate as a skincare consumer and figured that I would write a chatty post about them.

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I would personally define a serum in a two-fold manner – first they are distinguished by their light fluid texture and second, they are designed to treat a specific skincare concern in a targeted way. While the basic products of your skincare routine are typically selected on the basis of your skin type, serums are a welcome addition to treat your specific concerns. It’s also said that serums are the products with the highest concentration of beneficial ingredients. I do agree to a certain extent that because they are leave on products formulated without thickeners and SPF that they can have higher concentrations of these ingredients – but this is definitely not always true. Thinking on my definition of serums, I’ve come to the conclusion that whether or not a product is sold as an exfoliant, serum, treatment or liquid is dependent on the marketing, not on the virtues of the product itself. Here’s a rundown of serum-like products that I like, beginning with those that are traditional serums:

Paula’s Choice CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34 US/ ounce) is a fabulously formulated basic serum that almost anyone would benefit from. It’s plumping, soothing and hydrating in a weightless manner, formulated in a lightweight gel base. It contains loads of hyaluronic acid – it’s the second ingredient – along with skin repairing ingredients like ceramides, beta-glucan and sea whip extracts. Also, it contains skin -repairing antioxidants.

Laneige Bright Renew Original Serum ($59/1.3 ounces) is a serum that specifically targets brightening of the skin and actually achieves the intended goal without irritating the skin with needless alcohol or breaking the bank. It contains a myriad of plant extracts with research showing to brighten skin tone and serve as anti-irritants but the real star of the show, is the high concentrations of squalene (an emollient ingredient with antioxidant qualities) and niacinamide (a proven cell-signalling, repairing and brightening ingredient) that it contains. This is a nice one if you’re concerned with an even complexion and hyper pigmentation. The only drawback is their inclusion of a hefty amount of fragrance in the formula.

While Paula’s Choice RESIST C15 Super Booster ($48 US/0.67 ounces) is not technically a serum but instead a concentrate that can be mixed with another serum or product to dilute it, or used on its own, I think it’s the kind of product that most of us are looking for in a serum. It treats even the first sign of aging – sun damage – along with dulness, uneven tone and irritation. I think this product is for almost anyone, especially because the 15% vitamin c product can be applied in the daytime to counteract free radical damage from the sun that causes irritation and signs of aging. The formula nicely contains a mix of antioxidants.

I wouldn’t necessarily call the Pixi by Petra Skintreats Overnight Glow Serum ($24 US/ounce) a serum, except for the marketing, serum-texture and inclusion of beneficial ingredients. With a nice dose of glycolic acid (its the third ingredient), this is a hydrating fluid textured chemical exfoliant. However, the inclusion of antioxidants like arginine and  skin soothers like cucumber extract and aloe, leaves this product as a winner of a multitasker. The Paula’s Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment ($33 US/ 1.7 ounces) is very much a product of the same vein, only differing in how its marketed – as a chemical exfoliant with treatment benefits. It’s a serum to the same degree as the aforementioned one. It’s a 5% glycolic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid product housed in a hydrating lotion base, enriched with ceramides, a myriad of antioxidants and skin calming ingredients. These are both nice options if you have your eye on a multittasker or do-it-all kind of product.

The Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Enriched Calming Toner ($21 US/6.4 ounces) is somewhat of a far stretch to classify as a toner, but it provides lots of the same benefits of a nice all-around serum. It treats dry and sensitive skin and has that liquid milky base that almost seems more liquid serum like than that of a toner, and it houses high concentrations of beneficial ingredients because they are not diluted by thickeners and emollients. It does not have the intensive treatment benefits of some serums, however, it serves the purpose of a nice all-around option. It has a nice dose of different antioxidant rich plant oils, hyaluronic acid and a myriad of other antioxidants and skin soothing ingredients. In my mind, this makes it serve the function of a soothing serum. Perhaps, though, it fits more into the hybrid category of essence…

Any serum thoughts or favourites to share?
Maggie, x.

 

February Empties

This empties post (to accompany January’s Candles Empties post), along with the makeup version of my 2015 Favourites post, have been two posts that I’ve been musing about for ages and have been putting off onto the back burner, but now that it’s now February, it’s time to get a move on both of them. Today, I’m starting with the empties before I end up burning through half a dozen or so candles and am due another one of those.

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Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge ($8-9): I’ve mangled up my last one of these beauty sponges and have had no choice but to repurchase this more affordable version of those bouncy sponges that you dampen. It’s great especially for this time of year when my skin is even more parched than normal, because when you dampen the sponge, the foundation and concealer that you apply with it will be slightly sheered out, but stick to dry patches far less and look like skin.

Maybelline Brow Drama Sculpting Brow Mascara in Soft Brown ($11.99/7 mL): I really like the natural grey-leaning colour of this tinted brow mascara and I don’t even mind the large oddly shaped brush that it comes with – likely because I have bushier shaped brows – especially when I can’t be bothered to really do my brows but need some colour and definition in places. It’s also a nice one to set the brows in place on top of a brow product. It’s not life changing-ly awesome but I did repurchase it, instead trying out the darker shade in hopes of a bit more pigmentation.

L’Oreal Infallible SuperSlim Liquid Eyeliner ($9-10/1 mL): I really enjoyed this felt-tipped liquid liner because of just how easy it was to use, – even when caffeine had made me more than a little bit shaky – how fast it was to do a bit of a kitten flick and how the harder formula allowed for minimal mistakes when doing a simple line (and flick) along the lash line. The formula was a little harder and drier than I might always prefer, especially after the formula dried out from use – I suppose it’s still useable but my liner is over a year old now and it’s dry enough that I’m not pleased with the results. I recommend it and would think about purchasing it again – but I might try their newer liner first.

Diorshow Mascara ($34/0.33 ounces): Some months back, Sephora was offering a sample size of this cult classic mascara as a point perk and I couldn’t resist. I did actually end up really enjoying the formula and the brush – it had one of those huge brushes that I adore for building volume, a dry truly volumizing formula that was neither too difficult to remove or clumpy in the slightest, and one that offered some length and separation to boot. I’m not sure that I’m ready to shell out the cash for the full-size but I might consider it in the future, especially if it’s offered in a kit or something.

L’Oreal Sublime Soft Soothing Cleansing Wipes ($12.99/25): All things considered, these cleansing wipes are my favourite because if anything they are slightly hydrating – so they surpass the goal of being non-drying – and non irritating, either on my face or around my sensitive eye area. I’ll repurchase, even though I try not to be too much of a wipes person. The only ones that come close are the Bioderma ones that I’ve currently got on the go.

Sephora Perfecting & Brightening Pearl Sleeping Mask ($5/7 mL): I didn’t necessarily notice a profound difference in my skin after using it four or five times but I can say that it was not drying or irritating and did find it hydrating, soothing and plumping in the short term – and I enjoyed how I could get multiple uses out of the single mask (as compared to the sheets), along with how it was more comfortable to keep the mask on over time. I’ll perhaps repurchase – I’m just hesitant because there was not that significant of a difference and they are kind of heavily fragranced for my liking.

Paula’s Choice RESIST C15 Super Booster ($48 US/ 20 mLs): This concentrated 15% Vitamin C ‘booster-slash-serum’ product is expensive, especially for a product that supposedly only has a three month shelf life – I used it for six and did not have any sort of issues – because of how reactive the ingredient can be, but it has a sort of effect that I didn’t notice immediately but now can see when I went without it, that cannot be achieved for any less. It’s brightening, smooths texture and definitely reduces inflammation and irritation in a way that’s all around impressive enough to necessitate a desperate re-purchase from me. It’s one of those great antioxidant serums to boost the effect of your sunscreen when used in the daytime and fight against free-radical damage and the like.

Nuxe Reve de Miel Lip Moisturizing Stick ($8/0.14 ounces): This chapstick-style balm I suppose is the first lip balm that I liked well enough to use on the daily and place enough care to ensure that I didn’t lose it before finishing the stick. I have really dry and sensitive lips so many balms I actually find irritating and/or drying but this one was an exception – despite being a more lightweight textured balm that could easily be applied throughout the day and layered underneath lipsticks, I found it soothing and hydrating on the lips, in a way that stayed for a few hours at least on the lips. Before I even think about repurchasing, I want to try the cult-favourite pot version of the balm.

Eucerin Calming Daily Moisturizing Creme ($8/14 ounces): While I found this cream decently hydrating and non-irritating on the eczema on my legs, it did nothing special to heal them or reduce itching. In other words, there was nothing wrong with this fragrance-free medium weight cream, but it was not exactly impressive either. I’m moving on. P.S. The whole oatmeal soothes and hydrates dry and itchy skin for 24 hours claim is bogus, if you ask me.

L’Oreal EverCreme Intense Nourishing Sulfate-Free Shampoo ($8/250 mL): This sulfate-free shampoo reminds me loads of the higher end sulfate-free shampoos that I adore at a fraction of the price – it doesn’t irritate my sensitive scalp, doesn’t dry out my waves and doesn’t add to any tangling or unruly hair problems. It’s even comparable to the Pureology that I love at a fraction of the price – I just don’t find it quite as weightless. I’m partial to the perfume-y scent as well. I have too many shampoos on the go right now but I would repurchase this one or another from this range.

Pureology Curl Complete Moisture Melt Masque ($55/150 mLs): Usually I absolutely adore and endorse the splurge in Pureology haircare products but this masque was neither impressive enough or just plain concentrated enough to be worth the money. I’ll definitely purchase another Pureology masque but not this one. It was hydrating, nice and lightweight and had nice slip but didn’t have that impressive treatment aspect. I will say that it didn’t weigh down my waves at all on the positive side.

TreSemme Perfectly (Un)done Wave Creation Sea Foam ($6-8/236 mL): I was pleasantly surprised with this weightless but non-drying medium-hold mousse product – it left my hair weightless regardless of the products I cocktail-ed it with and it added lift and texture with some curl definition. It’s by no means holy grail but I would buy it again if I was yearning for that beachy effect. It’s also a product that I can see working universally across different hair types for that beach-y wave kind of effect.

Have you finished any products recently?
Maggie, x.

 

 

My First Paula’s Choice Order

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Since the very beginning of my blog, I’ve been aware of and relying on the information put out by the Paula’s Choice team in order to select worthy products and much of the information learned there contributed to dealing with my dry uber-sensitive skin that was in a crisis of sorts, so I’m in awe of them for that. Ever since, I’ve been intrigued by their product lines as well as their unbiased information and no bullshit approach but it wasn’t until about two weeks ago that I took the plunge and actually ordered from them after deliberating for so long. I believe it was over the holiday break that I discovered Paula’s Choice’s youtube channel and their amazing Live Chats and I’ve been obsessed with these chats ever since – they somehow manage to be entertaining, absurdly informative and relaxing at once. It was my enjoyment of the show for months that finally pushed me over the edge to make an order – along with the fact that I actually was running out of stuff and their prices are affordable with all things considered. And I also picked up a gift that I’m not going to show for my mother!

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  1. Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment 5% AHA ($30 $25.50/50 mL):

“Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% Alpha Hydroxy Acid is a must-have exfoliant for those who want their skin to look and act younger. It features 5% glycolic acid with a 0.50% boost of pore-penetrating salicylic acid. This anti-aging exfoliant reveals youthfully radiant skin and counteracts sun damage—without redness or irritation! The innovative daily-use formula continually renews your skin’s texture, evens skin tone, smooths fine lines, and stimulates healthy collagen production via exfoliation and by delivering a potent blend of antioxidants that help fight free-radical damage. Fragrance- and colorant-free, this silky treatment doubles as a lightweight moisturizer and is recommended as an integral part of the Paula’s Choice Resist line This AHA exfoliant has a pH range of 3.5-3.9”.

Preliminary thoughts: The very reason that I bit the bullet and placed this order was this product – I had actually run out of my current AHA exfoliant (the First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads) and Brian of the PC team had convinced me of the merits of this moisturizing and more gentle daily option, formulated with a slightly lower percent of glycolic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid. I’ve used this product four or five times and I’m more than impressed and I have to say that it’s been one of the most initially impressive products that I’ve ever tried. I’m ridiculously excited about this one and it may or may not be included in a post at the end of the month – or maybe early next month, judging by how things have been as of late.

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     2. Paula’s Choice Resist C15 Super Booster ($20 $9/0.12 ounces trial size)  [$48/ 0.67 ounces]:

“Resist C15 Super Booster is a concentrated, light-as-water liquid treatment product designed to supercharge your Paula’s Choice serum, or it may be used alone. A blend of 15% stabilized vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) at a pH of 3.0, antioxidant vitamin E, ferulic acid, and peptides repairs visible signs of aging and stimulates collagen production for smoother, brighter, and firmer skin. Vitamin C also helps protect skin from environmental damage as it evens your skin tone. You’ll see dramatically younger, healthier, and more radiant skin in weeks!”

Preliminary thoughts: I’m afraid that I haven’t used this concentrated Vitamin C treatment much but the time that I did use it, I was pleasantly surprised that it didn’t seem sensitizing despite the potency and that because its unscented, it doesn’t actually smell like sausages as I’ve heard. It has a nice serum-y texture and its supposed to do wonders with dealing the red marks left behind by blemishes that are a major concern of mine.

The Samples

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(i) Paula’s Choice Resist Moisture Renewal Oil Booster ($7/ trial size – FREE w/Promo) [$35/0.67 ounces]: “This unique blend of nine gentle, non-fragrant, antioxidant-packed plant oils brings soothing, moisture-rich relief to dull, dry skin. See a youthful glow return as essential fatty acids repair skin’s barrier to restore softness and elasticity while calming irritated skin. The non-greasy and elegantly-light texture absorbs quickly for all-day comfort and lasting smoothness” – IT’S BEAUTIFUL.

(ii) Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment ($10/trial size – FREE w/Promo) [$55/1 ounce]: “Combined with potent antioxidants, Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment is specially formulated to smooth and firm skin by helping to boost cell regeneration and stimulate collagen production. Its light, silky texture absorbs quickly and goes to work immediately to refine pore size, reduce deep wrinkles, fine lines, brown spots—it can even help breakouts, too! Licorice, oat extract and other anti-irritants help to minimize the irritation some people may get from products containing high amounts of retinol. You’ll be amazed at how much younger and radiant your skin will look and feel”

(iii) Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel (free sample or $0.80) [$26/3.3 ounces]: “Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant has a sheer, weightless texture that works to exfoliate the skin’s surface and fade signs of sun damage. The ultra-light formula corrects uneven skin tone for a brighter, smoother, more radiant complexion. Substantiated research shows that AHAs improve collagen production for firmer skin and increase skin’s moisture-binding ability. 8% AHA Gel works to sustain the results of professional peels and wears beautifully under a moisturizer or serum”

(iv) Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Lotion (free sample or $0.80) [$26/ 3.3 ounces]: “Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant moisturizes as it exfoliates both the skin’s surface and inside the pore, reshaping the pore lining, unclogging pores and improving skin cell turnover rate. This creates a dramatic improvement in the skin’s appearance, feel, and function, leading to healthier skin. There is a great deal of research indicating that BHA (beta hydroxy acid) increases collagen production and drastically smooths the surface of skin. Additionally, BHA has antibacterial properties that attack blemish-causing bacteria. The lush texture of the 2% BHA Lotion makes skin feel satiny soft, while potent anti-irritants help calm a reddened, blotchy complexion”.

(v) Paula’s Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($ 1/ sample) [$29/1.7 ounces]: “Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer contains a unique complex of ingredients proven to remodel your skin by building and preserving collagen, firming skin and protecting against moisture loss. The feather-light, silky texture provides substantial hydration. The active ingredients in the Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer are proven to make a visible difference in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, skin tone, and skin firmness”.

(vi) Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 ($0.80 / sample) [$26/ 2 ounces]: “Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 goes above and beyond most moisturizers with sunscreen. It replenishes dry, sensitive skin and ensures a healthy barrier function while protecting from daily sun damage (the cause of wrinkles and brown spots) with gentle mineral sunscreens. Loaded with potent antioxidants, skin-identical ceramides and cell-communicating peptides to restore and help maintain healthy, radiant skin that looks and acts younger. Ideal for those with rosacea and specially designed to be worn under makeup”.IT’S AT LEAST AS BEAUTIFUL ON ACCOUNT OF ITS GENTLENESS AND LACK OF A COLOUR CAST.

(vii) Paula’s Choice Clinical Ultra-Rich Soothing Body Butter (free sample or $0.80) [$19/113 g]: “Paula’s Choice Clinical Ultra-Rich Soothing Body Butter is the solution for problem dry skin anywhere on the body. This Clinically proven treatment cream immediately softens dry, rough skin and keeps it moisturized for 12 hours. A superior blend of antioxidant-rich plant oils, restorative emollients, soothing anti-irritants, and pure shea butter work together to restore and strengthen skin’s protective barrier. Its rich texture is non-greasy and spreads easily helping dry, cracked skin become healthy again, look younger, and feel velvety-smooth”.

(viii) Paula’s Choice Resist Weightless Body Treatment 2% BHA ($1/ sample) [$25/ 7 ounces]: “Resist Weightless Body Treatment is truly a one-of-a-kind product! This anti-aging body lotion contains an effective amount of salicylic acid (BHA) formulated at a pH range (3.5-3.9) that allows the BHA to have superior exfoliating properties. As a result, it works to soften rough, bumpy areas, ease dryness, help clear breakouts from the neck down, stimulate collagen production and banish dullness for improved skin tone. This silky, lightweight moisturizer sets to a soft matte finish and is packed with proven antioxidants and potent anti-irritants to keep skin youthful and healthy. This specialized body product will reveal younger-looking skin with a renewed firmness, refined texture and fewer discolorations from sun damage”.

Overall, I definitely had a good experience ordering from Paula’s Choice, even as a Canadian customer. Whilst the order had an added charge (even though I qualified for ‘free shipping’), I can understand that for crossing the border and I was pleased that the order came here in about a week and a half, even including weather-related delivery problems – they even gave me the discounted price, even though I ordered a few hours before the sale begun because it did not process until the following day! I will warn you that on the site, the prices are in US dollars, so be warned of the prices being notably higher considering how awful the Canadian dollar is doing at the moment! It’s also nice that the products are made in the US so we do not have to pay duty!

Have you tried anything from Paula’s Choice?
Maggie, x.